Namibia - Day 15 16/10/18

Grootfontein

Today was planned as a rest day to sort out the final sites for birds I still want to see and to try for the Black-faced Babblers one last go. 

I started the day walking around the grounds of Pondoki finding a lovely flock of Southern Pied Babblers. A flock of 30 Egyptian Geese also flew over heading north as if they were migrating. 

The rest of the day was spent chilling out until it was deemed ‘cool’ enough to head 40km back up to Roy’s Camp for one last go of the Babblers. A police road block held me up for five minutes as the grumpy women deemed it my fault that the ‘ZA’ sticker on the rear windscreen was on show, and not the hire company. Anyway I was soon on my way again and into Roy’s Camp. Again the staff were very friendly and allowed me to walk all around the grounds. I felt semi-confident but after three laps of the camp I hadn’t had a sniff of a Babbler. I was close to giving up but in the distance I heard what I knew were Babblers. I got out of my weary state and sprinted around to the other side of the complex. I finally set eyes on the birds but neither of them were facing me meaning I couldn’t see their pale eyes. Therefore I charged into the scrub and long grass until I was nearly on top of them where they gave superb views for about ten minutes. A huge relief to have finally found them. 

The drive back produced seven Red-Crested Korhaans as the sun started to set. 

Egyptian Goose - 30

Crested Francolin - 2

Swainson’s Spurfowl - 3

Red-Crested Korhaan - 7

Southern Red-billed Hornbill - 6

Acacia Pied Barbet - 3

White-Crested Helmetshrike - 4

BLACK-FACED BABBLER - 8

SOUTHERN PIED BABBLER - 8

Chestnut-vented Warbler - 2

Red-billed Buffalo Weaver - 4

Golden-breasted Bunting - 15

Southern Pied Babbler at Pondoki

Black-faced Babbler at Roy's Camp

The entrance to Roy's Camp -

no doubt the best site to see the Babbler

Namibia - Day 14 15/10/18

Rundu to Grootfontein

Despite still feeling a bit ropey I was keen to head back to Rundu Sewage Works where yet again there was a good array of species present. A couple of hours here produced two stunning Southern Brown-throated Weavers, a Southern Pochard and two species of Pratincole. 

I didn’t want breakfast and had a snooze for a while before driving south to Grootfontein to Pondoki Rest Camp. Another lovely accommodation with good WiFi and a nice pool. 

For the second time, I headed to Roy’s Camp to try for the Black-faced Babbler. Last time I tried it was midday and there was obviously no sign, although this time I felt fairly optimistic. The person on duty allowed me to sit in the baking sunlight and wait near the small waterhole. A Pearl Spotted Owlet showed very well as some White-crested Helmetshrikes battered it, but sadly despite overheating no Babblers came in. With this site only being 40km away I’ll keep trying for the next two days if I’m allowed to. 

The drive back to Pondoki produced a smart Red-Crested Korhaan at the side of the road, and a lovely sunset. 

Highlights today are as follows:

Hottentot Teal - 2

Southern Pochard - 1

Red-Crested Korhaan - 1

Kittlitz’s Plover - 1

Marsh Sandpiper - 1

Black-winged Pratincole - 1

Pearl Spotted Owlet - 1

Southern Red-billed Hornbill - 1

Orange-breasted Bushshrike - 2

White-Crested Helmetshrike - 6

Red-breasted Swallow - 2

Wattled Starling - 50

Ashy Flycatcher - 2

Red-billed Buffalo Weaver - 4

Southern Brown-throated Weaver - 2

Red-billed Firefinch - 2

African Pipit - 4

Black-backed Puffback - 2

Red-breasted Swallow at Rundu 

Western Cattle Egrets

Namibia - Day 13 14/10/18

Divundu to Rundu

The first day of the trip that I’d felt slightly under the weather and so I didn’t have much enthusiasm to bird all hours. Another visit into Mahango Game Reserve at long last produced a good array of raptors, and some good Antelopes with the best being a superb Sable Antelope. 

My next accommodation was halfway between Divundu and Rundu but annoyingly it appeared they had no food on site and the place didn’t have a nice feel about it. After pondering on the bed for ten minutes I quickly turned on my mobile data and booked myself into Sarusunga Lodge at Rundu. Without saying goodbye (but trip ticking African Paradise Flycatcher), I left and was soon arriving back at Rundu. 

My illness hadn’t improved and so I lazed around for a while before walking around the grounds finding a nice pair of Ashy Flycatchers. As darkness fell, the sound of Rufous-cheeked and Fiery-necked Nightjars started. 

No lifers today can only mean I’m nearing the end of a so far successful trip. 

Highlights for today are as follows:

Black-chested Snake Eagle - 1

Brown Snake Eagle - 1

Martial Eagle - 1

Wattled Crane - 2

Rock Pratincole - 10

Bradfield’s Hornbill - 2

Meyer’s Parrot - 1

Chinspot Batis - 2

Magpie Shrike - 1

African Paradise Flycatcher - 2

Yellow-bellied Greenbul - 5

Willow Warbler - 1

Hartlaub’s Babbler - 10

Yellow-billed Oxpecker - 5

Kurrichane Thrush - 2

Ashy Flycatcher - 2

Marico Sunbird - 1

Red-headed Weaver - 1

Jameson’s Firefinch - 4

Emerald Spotted Wood Dove

at Mahango Game Reserve

Rock Pratincoles at Popa Falls

Kurrichane Thrush at Sarusunga

The not so mighty Popa Falls

in the distance

Another riverside chalet

Namibia/Botswana - Day 12 13/10/18

Xaro Lodge to Popa Falls

This morning was the whole reason why I came into Botswana, a chance to see a Pel’s Fishing Owl. Xaro Lodge is a known spot for this species as they are regularly seen in the gardens. However, they change their roost site each day and so finding them can be very difficult, and are certainly not guaranteed. 

I was outside my chalet at first light dodging the fruit that the Vervet Monkey was throwing at me, to be confronted by lots of noise from all the birds. Giant Kingfishers were settling on my balcony and a whole possession of new birds for the trip were seen. 

I had arranged to meet Rohane again who is an exceptional birder who doesn’t even carry binoculars, yet still finds and identifies birds long before I’ve seen them. Rohane asked me whether I wanted a birding walk, or to just find the Owl. Certainly a daft question but the Owl was all I wanted. The first 5-10 trees failed to produce anything and I had already given up hope. A pair of African Barred Owlets that I found failed to cheer me up much, but then Rohane calmly waved me over to a tree, and looking up into the dense canopy was sat a superb Pel’s Fishing Owl, by far the bird of the trip. It was accidentally flushed but landed in full view with the sun shining on it. A stunning bird and even better a short while later another Pel’s was found. All of this was going on as an Elephant was keeping a close eye on us at about 40 metres range. 

After a hefty breakfast it was time to get the boat transfer back to the car and return into Namibia. It was too early to check in at Shametu River Lodge at Popa Falls, and therefore I took the loop circuit at Mahango Game Reserve, where a good list of mammals were seen, including the Red Lechwe. 

Now at the lodge I chilled for a while before heading back into Mahango where a large herd of Elephants came close to the car, and another good list of new trip birds were seen. The unexpected lifer here were a pair of Green-backed Honeyguides, and the more expected Bradfield’s Hornbill. 

By the time I got back to Shametu, it was dark but I still noticed an Owl fly into the tree from my balcony. The silhouette looked good for an African Wood Owl and so I rushed in and got my torch, and I was pleased to see it was indeed a Wood Owl. A three Owl day on an Eade tour is almost unheard of! 

No WiFi for the next two nights after tonight and only five full days left. 

Long list of highlights for the day are as follows:

Crested Francolin - 3

Swainson’s Spurfowl - 1

Yellow-billed Stork - 2

African Spoonbill - 2

Bateleur - 7

Dark Chanting Goshawk - 2

Little Sparrowhawk - 1

Wattled Crane - 8

Temminck’s Courser - 2

Collared Pratincole - 5

Black-winged Pratincole - 1

Rock Pratincole - 2

PEL’S FISHING OWL - 2

African Wood Owl - 1

AFRICAN BARRED OWLET - 2

Broad-billed Roller - 4

Common Scimitarbill - 2

BRADFIELD’S HORNBILL - 3

Black-collared Barbet - 5

GREEN-BACKED HONEYGUIDE - 2

Orange-breasted Bushshrike - 2

Retz’s Helmetshrike - 10

Southern Black Tit - 2

Burnt-necked Eremomela - 9

White-browed Robin-Chat - 4

Yellow-fronted Canary - 1

African Barred Owlet at Xaro Lodge

Pel's Fishing Owl

Sulphur-breasted Bush-Shrike at 

Mahango Game Reserve

Wattled Cranes

Bradfield's Hornbill

Southern Carmine Bee-Eater

African Wood Owl at Shametu

Pel's in the dark green tree

View from the chalet at Xaro Lodge

Mahango Game Reserve

Giant Baobab Tree

Namibia/Botswana - Day 11 12/10/18

Rundu to Botswana

The day started as I finished off yesterday, at the wonderful Rundu Sewage Works. I wanted better views of the African Rail that I saw briefly last night. Much better views were had this morning as well as a superb Painted Snipe showing well, although my camera was frustratingly in my bag. Back at the lodge there were birds everywhere and so I missed breakfast and enjoyed adding many trip ticks to the ever growing list, and walking along the river where I was pleased to see a Magpie Shrike. At some woodland roughly 20km south of Rundu I came across what I presume is a Woodland Pipit, although I’m still awaiting further literature into this as the photos aren’t great, but it’s unlikely to be anything else. 

After stocking up it was time to head into Botswana, and after a thankfully swift process, Botswana was also on the list. My first bird upon entering this country was a Southern Carmine Bee-Eater, which was surely a good sign of things to come. Birds then came thick and fast and at Drotsky’s Cabins the gardens were alive with birds. The wait for a boat taxi was around half hour and it was then time to cruise up the Okavango to the spectacular Xaro Lodge, and although expensive to stay at, its certainly worth every penny. I had organised a boat tour to hopefully find Slaty Egret and Lesser Jacana. Despite finding three of the former, the latter once again evaded me (Uganda being the last time I dipped this species). There was great consolation with hundreds of water birds, especially Herons and Egrets which are always good value, and a bonus Coppery-tailed Coucal. The cruise back to Xaro was perfect with another lovely sunset, and a couple of beers at hand. 

Fingers crossed in the morning a certain orange Owl can be found (it was).

Highlights are as follows:

Hottentot Teal - 4

African Openbill - 2

Saddle-billed Stork - 1

Little Bittern - 1

Goliath Heron - 2

Black Heron - 75

SLATY EGRET - 3

African Harrier Hawk - 2

African Marsh Harrier - 1

African Rail - 1

Long-toed Lapwing - 20

Greater Painted Snipe - 2

Collared Pratincole - 25

Whiskered Tern - 1

COPPERY-TAILED COUCAL - 1

Malachite Kingfisher - 10

Giant Kingfisher - 1

SOUTHERN CARMINE BEE-EATER - 5

Crested Barbet - 2

Magpie Shrike - 1

Black-headed Oriole - 2

Yellow-bellied Greenbul - 2

Mosque Swallow - 2

MEVE’S STARLING - 20

Holub’s Golden Weaver - 4

SOUTH. BROWN-THROATED WEAVER - 1

African Rail at Rundu Sewage Works

Hottentot Teals

Swamp Boubous at Tambuti Lodge

African Fish Eagle

African Skimmer along the Okavango

Crested Barbet at Xaro Lodge

Malachite Kingfisher along the Okavango

Goliath Heron

Black Heron

African Pygmy Goose

Slaty Egret

The Okavango Panhandle

The banks of Xaro Lodge

Namibia - Day 10 11/10/18

Etosha NP to Rundu

Up early ready for a 500km drive to Rundu, based at the western edge of the Caprivi Strip. Being at Okaukuejo meant a long drive through Etosha NP before getting onto the tarmac roads heading SE to Grootfontein and then due north to Rundu. With my typical rally style of driving I got out of Etosha in under two hours, which could be a record. It wasn’t without any stops though, a pair of Spotted Hyenas showed well and then a roadside Elephant got very friendly as it sized up our car. 

Getting onto tarmac roads was a relief and I was tempted to go directly across on a dirt road but I wimped out having already got a puncture this trip. Heading north I stopped off at Roy’s Camp, a well known site for Black-faced Babblers. As I walked up the staff knew what I wanted to see but it was obvious due to the time of day that I wasn’t going to see one, but thankfully they invited me back next week for another go. 

The drive north turned into proper Africa with constant roadside scanty villages, children walking home from school and dare I say, no whites. 

Thankfully after a lengthy day behind the wheel I arrived into Rundu and the exquisite Tambuti Lodge right alongside the Okavango River with Angola a stones throw away. With three hours of light remaining I headed to the very attractive Rundu Sewage Works. A wealth of birds present including what could be one of the highlights of the trip, a flock of five Black-winged Pratincoles flew through as it neared dusk, only the second occurrence I’ve seen this species (first in Kent), and great to hear their diagnostic single note flight call. Also it was great to finally see an African Rail. There were many Warblers in the reedbeds but most were very skulky, but thankfully the one that showed brilliantly was a Little Rush Warbler, an unexpected new bird. 

The final few minutes of light was spent on the riverside watching Rufous-cheeked Nightjars over Angola.  

Hottentot Teal - 10

Squacco Heron - 1

Black-chested Snake Eagle - 2

AFRICAN RAIL - 1

African Swamphen - 7

Three-Banded Plover - 3

African Snipe - 10

Black-winged Pratincole - 5

Emerald-spotted Wood Dove - 3

Senegal Coucal - 2

White-browed Coucal - 1

Black Cuckoo - 1

Rufous-cheeked Nightjar - 4

Giant Kingfisher - 1

Green Wood Hoopoe - 2

Red-necked Falcon - 1

Rosy-faced Lovebird - 3

SWAMP BOUBOU - 4

Banded Martin - 1

LITTLE RUSH WARBLER - 1

Arrow-marked Babbler - 5

HARTLAUB’S BABBLER - 2

Burchell’s Starling - 10

Kurrichane Thrush - 1

Spectacled Weaver - 1

Okaukuejo Camp area

Etosha Pan

True African roadsides

Sunset looking over Angola