Ecuador – Arrival & Yanacocha

On Thursday 10th March, I set off to Heathrow in the early hours bound for Quito (via Amsterdam). The flight was very long but I touched down in Quito in the mid-afternoon, cleared customs very easily, grabbed my standard hire car from Europcar and set off on my first non-work foreign birding trip in over two years! 

As it was still light, I drove halfway up the mountain heading east to see what I could find in the fading light. In honesty, it was underwhelming but was saved by a high-flying flock of Andean Gulls, a species I wasn't to see throughout the remaining ten days in country. 

After dinner and stocking up on water and food items, I found my hotel close to the airport and called it a day, very much looking forward to my holiday!

Friday 11th March

I woke up early and thought I may as well start making my way up to Yanacocha, which raises up to the west of the city. I was nervous about the drive as I was unsure whether my car would be up to dealing with the mountain/hilly roads, but thankfully it did a blinding job and managed well. There was the odd occasion on this first morning I had to get out and test the ground, but all was well. Driving around Quito was fine and up to the site worked out very well and I helpfully arrived just as it started to get light.

As the gate was shut (opens at 7am), I walked the road and found a few Andean Guans, Yellow-breasted Brush-finches, Great Sapphirewings, Tyrian Metaltail and the ludicrous Sword-billed Hummingbird! 

Once the gate had opened, a guard explained the site was in fact closed. I said "fine" or to similar effect, but waited until he had continued before I invited myself in (there was no way I was not visiting). Walking along the access road to the main parking area I heard another guard approaching on his bike, so I quickly hid in a bush, waited until he had passed, and continued on walking. Once at the parking area, another gate was shut, so I waited for a bit watching some stunning Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanagers, Shining Sunbeams, and best of all, a Tawny Antpitta! However, I needed to get through the gate. Some more guards came along and waited by the gate whilst I hid behind the sign... I hid for ten minutes(!) before they were let through, but then the guard shut the gate once they had. I therefore gave up this time wasting and climbed the gate and dashed down to the first corner... PHEW, I was in! 

I'm glad I made the effort as it was an excellent site. A single track on a steep, forested mountain side, birds came thick and fast with by far the highlight being an Ocellated Tapaculo, which emerged from below me as I 'psshhd' away. This mega attractive bird was the only one I saw and is never guaranteed on a visit to Ecuador. Also, Aplomado Falcons had a nest, two species of pufflegs were great (sadly no Black-breasted) and a Blackish Tapaculo showed briefly. A decent landslide (the reason for the site's closure) stopped my progress, but I was relatively happy with the birds and the views. 

I then sat at the headquarters and entertained myself with watching hummingbirds and whatever else came in. Buff-winged Starfrontlets, Tyrian Metaltails, Sword-billed Hummingbirds and sublime Sapphire-vented Pufflegs were first rate. A Crimson-mantled Woodpecker was also stunning... a great start to my time in Ecuador! 

I left Yanacocha late morning and made the slow progress towards Bella Vista via a relatively dangerous mountain road, where constant landslides had only recently happened. All this and the birds from Bella Vista will be in the next post.

Highlights from Yanacocha

Andean Guan - 3
Tyrian Metaltail - 5
Shining Sunbeam - ca. 20
Sapphire-vented Puffleg - 3
Golden-breasted Puffleg - 2
Buff-winged Starfrontlet - 15
Sword-billed Hummingbird - 3
Great Sapphirewing - 2
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker - 1
Carunculated Caracara - 2
Aplomado Falcon - 3
Tawny Antpitta - 1
Ocellated Tapaculo - 1
Blackish Tapaculo - 1
Glossy Flowerpiercer - 2
Hooded Mountain Tanager - 2
Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager - 2

Great Sapphirewing

Tawny Antpitta

Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager

Ocellated Tapaculo

Hooded Mountain Tanager

Buff-winged Starfrontlet

Crimson-mantled Woodpecker

Shining Sunbeam

Even in silhouette, an easy ID - a Sword-billed Hummingbird

Sword-billed Hummingbird

Tyrian Metaltail

Stunning views from Yanacocha

The landslide