1st April 2023
After the snorkel yesterday, we left heading for westwards towards my most wanted island to visit in this region, this being Guadalcanal. Not only are the birds excellent here, but the island has plenty of historical interest too and although there was no time for that, to set foot on the island was a privilege. One of the highlights from our sailing westwards were two quite awesome logging Pygmy Sperm Whales which I picked up as we were gawping at a huge raft of Sooty Terns and Lesser Frigatebirds. Certainly my cetacean highlight of the trip.
We anchored overnight off Honiara and awoke pre-dawn and even arrived up on Mount Austen pre-dawn too. In the darkness, a Woodford's Rail was calling from some rank vegetation, but alas it remained out of sight throughout this brief period of vocalisation. As light arrived, the forested valleys below us stretched as far as the eye could see, but the birds took a while. Solomon's Cockatoo started to appear in very raucous flocks, while both Cardinal Lory and Yellow-bibbed Lory flew over and Buff-headed Coucal were proving to be a nightmare with their secretive ways.
As per the norm, I tended to head off from the main flock of birders and walked the main forest track on my own, which worked wonders. I must say I did really well with the majority of target birds seen in a short space of time, while others were struggling. We birded until midday before we had to make tracks back to the vessel, which meant a rather hectic uphill return to make the last vehicle back. However, during the birding time, I saw the following: Midget Berrypecker, Solomon's Cuckooshrike, Moustached Treeswift, some superb Claret-breasted Fruit Doves, Steel-blue Flycatcher, Finsch's Pygmy Parrot, Black-headed Myzomela, two Ultramarine Kingfishers, two White-billed Crows, a juvenile Pied Goshawk and a brief Song Parrot. It had been a brilliant session but I was still missing the coucal and I'd also missed a megapode, although there was still a few days left on these islands before heading north.
We reluctantly departed this site and took a zodiac back to the ship and continued our sailing westwards, this time towards Tetepare, although there was little rush to set sail as Tetepare wasn't too far away. As dusk approached, I stayed outside to admire the sunset and general sense of being in such a remote part of the world, and I'm glad I did, as two Blainville's Beaked Whales emerged, admittedly at a distance, but were a treat to see.
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| Solomon's Cockatoo |
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| Finsch's Pygmy Parrot |
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| Ultramarine Kingfisher |
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| Claret-breasted Fruit Dove |
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| Cardinal Lory |
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| Solomon's Cuckooshrike |
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| Steel-blue Flycatcher |
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Blainville's Beaked Whales - although hard to see, the upper image
shows the beak at about a 40 degree angle out of the ocean,
combined with a distinct dorsal fin,
there is little else what this beaked whale could be. |
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| Views from Mount Austen |
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| Another Solomon's Sunset |
2nd April 2023Today, we dawned opposite the small island of Tetepare where we spent the morning walking the trails that led out from a small village. It was as if the trails were meant for birding, but I suspect not. Anyway, the usual chaos ensued with everyone gathering in one spot, being shouted at by Chris Collins ordering everyone around, before being allowed to set off with a villager to ensure we didn't get lost. It didn't take too long for me to breakaway from my group and once again I ended up on my own, every now and then bumping into the odd group here and there.
The birding was very good, however, and before we had even departed the gathering spot, we had seen Beach Kingfisher, large groups of Singing Starlings, the superb White-capped Monarch, Dark-eyed White-eye, Crimson-rumped Myzomela and Olive-backed Sunbird. Walking the trails, I had some excellent views of a Red-knobbed Imperial Pigeon, Song Parrot, Barred Cuckooshrike and I even managed some great looks at a Cockerell's Fantail. I walked off the trail at one point and I was certain I flushed a nightjar species, but the views were frustratingly brief and I couldn't be sure. A short while later, I was walking close to the beach and heard a Melanesian Megapode. I stalked the area and finally clapped eyes on the elusive bird and obtained some excellent views. I went off to alert others to its presence and thankfully most others saw it. It had been another productive walk, and after several circuits of the area, I was ready to head back. I then just so happened to be on the correct zodiac as a superb Sanford's Sea Eagle flew over us... what a bird and finale to the morning.
In the afternoon, there was then an option of either visiting Rendoza Island, or go snorkelling off Tetepare. As always, I was keen for both and so I made sure I was back in time to grab the final zodiac over to Rendoza after my snorkel. I must admit, the snorkel was superb - far greater variety than last time with some exceptionally colourful fish seen, including the spectacular Moorish Idol (look it up). I annoyingly missed a Black-tip Reef Shark... I still don't know how!
Thankfully I still had time to get to Rendoza and I rushed over to the main forest track and joined Frank Lambert who was taping in a Kolombangara Monarch. It took some time to come in but thankfully it did which was a huge relief, although I need not have worried, as we were to see many more the following day. A pair of Cockerell's Fantails and several White-capped Monarchs also performed superbly.
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| Monitor Lizard |
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| Red-knobbed Imperial Pigeon |
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| Long-tailed Myna |
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| Barred Cuckooshrike |
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| Song Parrot |
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| A trail on Tetepare |
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| Beach Kingfisher on Tetepare |
