22nd & 23rd November 2024
We departed Manila port about two hours late, but by this time Em and I had already drowned our sorrows in beer as we knew we were in for a tough journey with over a thousand teenage athletes and a 40-person dormitory to sleep in. We had opted for this ferry journey as one, it would offer a different style of travelling around rather than another flight, and second, it gave a chance of perhaps finding Swinhoe's Storm Petrel in the Sula Sea. Turns out there were very few seabirds and we wish we'd flown... oh well!
A quick stop at the Coron Islands was spectacular, very Jurassic Park-like and gave us a few different species with White-bellied Sea Eagle, some green pigeon species and a few terns. Onwards, and into deeper waters, we eventually found some seabirds as two Red-footed Boobies circled the ship and some Greater Crested Terns were feeding well offshore, but that was that.
We thankfully arrived and we rushed off the ship as we couldn't face anymore and walked the short distance to our hotel, on the outskirts of Puerta Princessa.
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The Coron Islands |
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Sula Sea |
24th, 25th, 26th November 2024
We awoke and before making our way into the hills, we birded the Badjao Restaurant as this was hitting high on ebird. First some good woodland, it then descended down into mangroves and we quickly saw some of the island endemics, including the stunning Palawan Flowerpecker. In addition were several Philippine Pied Fantails, three each of Pale Spiderhunters and Pink-necked Green Pigeons, Collared Kingfishers, and lots of Ashy-fronted Bulbuls and Asian Glossy Starlings.
It was then time to head into the hills, staying at the luxurious Atremaru Resort (booked for Em's birthday) which was enveloped in pristine hill forest which offered several walking trails, therefore plenty of relaxing and birding time in equal measure. It was hard to leave the pool or the general area as the birding was excellent, but on Em's birthday we also went snorkelling over a phenomenal coral reef which gave us stacks of colourful fish, the best being Copperband Butterflyfish (look this one up!!) - two Grey-tailed Tattlers here was an overdue world tick! Another major sighting of this area was finding the nocturnal Palawan Flying Squirrel!! The birding highlights around the resort are as follows:
Palawan Tit - 3
White-bellied Woodpecker - 4
Spotted Wood Owl - 2 (at night)
Brown-backed Needletail - 10
Palwan Flowerpecker - 5
Fiery Minivet - 6
Grey-throated Bulbul - 2
Sulphur-bellied Bulbul - 4
White-vented Shama - 1
Palawan Sunbird - 1
Lovely Sunbird - 4
Blue-naped Parrot - 1
Palawan Fairy Bluebird -1
White-bellied Munia - 2
Chestnut-breasted Malkoha - 2
Eyebrowed Thrush - 1
Palawan Drongo - 1
Pin-striped Tit-babbler - 2
On our final morning we did a tourist thing, much to our disgust, to the underground river in the national park. Although we did see a Philippine Megapode here, the caves were underwhelming, but a one hour wait at the restaurant in Sabang was spent birding the garden where a huge mixed bird flock came through and comprised the following highlights:
Palawan Hornbill - 5
Chestnut-breasted Malkoha - 2
Sunda Brush Cuckoo - 1
Spot-throated Flameback - 2
Bar-bellied Cuckooshrike - 4
Black-naped Oriole - 1
Palawan Drongo - 3
Blue Paradise Flycatcher - 1
Grey-throated Bulbul - 2
Black-headed Bulbul - 4
Yellow-throated Leafbird - 4
Collared Kingfisher |
Palawan Flowerpecker - endemic to Palawan |
Rufous-tailed Tailorbird |
Sulphur-bellied Bubul - endemic to Palawan |
White-bellied Woodpecker |
White-vented Shama - endemic to Palawan |
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Atremaru Resort grounds |
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entrance to the Underground River |
We then spent a few further days in the north of the island at Port Barton where the birding was slightly limited, but we still managed some good birds, made more convenient by renting a scooter to get around, although we did run out of fuel one afternoon meaning we had to free-wheel it back down to the village. At Pamuayan Falls, we birded a trail finding several Palawan Crows (made easier to locate by their bizarre call), Palawan Fairy Bluebird, a Thick-billed Flowerpecker and Lovely Sunbird, Blue Paradise Flycatcher and two Yellow-throated Leafbirds. We also hired some kayaks and went to some random outer islands finding a few Philippine Megapodes.
On our final evening, now back in Puerto Princessa after catching a minivan/bush taxi back to the city, we walked a few streets at night in the hope of finding a Palawan Frogmouth. Sadly, despite being at their known site and hearing one briefly, no frogmouth appeared, which was a real disappointment. Some Palawan Flying Foxes, an endangered species, made up for this miss.
The next morning, we caught a flight to Cebu City and transferred immediately, by ferry, to Bohol, which will be the next and final blogpost of our time in The Philippines.
Palawan Crow, taken by Emily |
Palawan Birdwing, taken by Emily |
Palawan Flying Fox, taken by Emily |