This is the second blog post on my current trip to Nepal. The first 17 or so days was spent undertaking the trek to Everest Basecamp. The company we used was 'Nepal Promote Treks', and Saroj the owner, was superb throughout.
This post continues the trek, ascending north from Namche Bazar and heading slowly but surely towards Basecamp. We were among the upper reaches of the treeline, but from now on there was plenty of both descending and ascending. This suited me as I could create quite a lead from the others to savour some of the mouth-watering species that can be found at these altitudes.
Sunday 16th February (Namche to Deboche)
I started the day the same as yesterday, by walking the valley to the west of Namche. Once again, there was a fine selection of species on offer, despite the temperature being well below zero.
After breakfast, we started the long and arduous walk to Deboche, taking in the superb scenery up the valley in front of us. One of the biggest surprises whilst walking the mountain ridge was a Hen Harrier, that circled above me and drifted down the valley. Descending down towards the river for lunch took us through some superb forest, and several Tit flocks comprising of a few species were encountered. On the ground were a couple of Black-throated Thrushes and White-throated Redstarts.
After lunch, the perilous climb up to Tengboche monastery commenced, and I feared that I had walked the hill too quickly. I soon emerged out of the Rhododendron forest and had failed to locate any Blood Pheasants (though it was a good job we returned this way!), and sadly little else. After a break after what I considered to be the toughest climb of the trek, we descended down to Deboche where thick snow was immediately apparent. I let the others continue on whilst I climbed up to another viewpoint, and then traced their steps. Although quiet, patience was soon rewarded by a trio of Red-headed Bullfinches. This minor excitement sent me sinking into the snow as I tried to encroach, adding laughter to one of the porters.
Our stay at Paradise Lodge was thankfully for only one night. It was the worst place we stayed at, not helped by the cold. Evidence of this was our water bottles freezing in our rooms overnight, and the inside of our windows being covered in thick ice. The only positive note was the unbelievable spectacle of the night sky...….wow!
Highlights for today:
Himalayan Griffon - 20
Hen Harrier - 1
Snow Pigeon - 50
GREY-CRESTED TIT - 10
Streaked Laughingthrush - 3
Black-faced laughingthrush - 15
White-browed Fulvetta - 4
Wallcreeper - 1
HODGSON'S TREECREEPER - 2
White-throated Redstart - 4
Altai Accentor - 10
Rufous-breasted Accentor - 2
Beautiful Rosefinch - 4
RED-HEADED BULLFINCH - 3
White-winged Grosbeak - 20
Monday 17th February (Deboche to Dingboche)
A shorter day, though still with its tough parts. We mercifully departed Paradise lodge (after a lengthy thawing-out session) and continued up the spectacular valley. The views were just amazing, and it was just as well, as we soon left the trees behind us, and that meant fewer birds. There wasn't a great deal to report along the trek to Dingboche, and after settling in to one of the many lodges on offer, I got my boots back on and walked further up the valley. Dense low scrub dominated the riverbanks up the valley, and here I found some brilliant birds. Having done limited research, I was staggered to find a good number of Guldenstadt's Redstarts. The males were very territorial - this being very helpful for me as the males kept finding my birds for me. Among the Black-throated Thrushes was a single Red-throated Thrush, many Robin Accentors and Beautiful Rosefinches.
I retired back to the lodge and chilled for the remainder of the day.
Highlights for today:
Golden Eagle - 1
Alpine Chough - 100+
Grey Crested Tit - 2
Hodgson's Treecreeper - 1
RED-THROATED THRUSH - 1
Black-throated Thrush - 10
White-throated Redstart - 6
GULDENSTADT'S REDSTART - 12
Brown Dipper - 2
ROBIN ACCENTOR - 4
Beautiful Rosefinch - 10
White-winged Grosbeak - 8
Tuesday 18th February (acclimatisation at Dingboche)
I went out early morning once again, walking to the same set of bushes I ventured to last night. Yet again, there were plenty more Redstarts and Accentors of varying species. As brilliant as these were, whilst heading back for breakfast, I heard a pair of Tibetan Snowcocks calling on the slopes above me. A frantic scan revealed nothing, but after another bout of calling, a pair of Snowcocks flew along the ridge and landed just about in view, albeit at some distance away......result!
After breakfast, we hiked up a steep hill above Dingboche, preparing us for the next few days. Once this and lunch was completed, I again went solo and walked two hours up the valley towards Island Peak. I noticed a glacier earlier in the day, and after a strenuous effort at a now very difficult altitude, I got lovely views. I was unsure as to where my energy was coming from, but having it meant I was able to venture to different places. I was fairly exhausted after this four hour venture, and so chilled for the rest of the evening, ready for tomorrow's assault.
Highlights for today:
TIBETAN SNOWCOCK - 2
Lammergeier - 1
Red-throated Thrush - 2
Black-throated Thrush - 7
White-throated Redstart - 1
Guldenstadt's Redstart - 20
Plain Mountain Finch - 75
ALPINE ACCENTOR - 1 (at long last)
Robin Accentor - 20
This post continues the trek, ascending north from Namche Bazar and heading slowly but surely towards Basecamp. We were among the upper reaches of the treeline, but from now on there was plenty of both descending and ascending. This suited me as I could create quite a lead from the others to savour some of the mouth-watering species that can be found at these altitudes.
Sunday 16th February (Namche to Deboche)
I started the day the same as yesterday, by walking the valley to the west of Namche. Once again, there was a fine selection of species on offer, despite the temperature being well below zero.
After breakfast, we started the long and arduous walk to Deboche, taking in the superb scenery up the valley in front of us. One of the biggest surprises whilst walking the mountain ridge was a Hen Harrier, that circled above me and drifted down the valley. Descending down towards the river for lunch took us through some superb forest, and several Tit flocks comprising of a few species were encountered. On the ground were a couple of Black-throated Thrushes and White-throated Redstarts.
After lunch, the perilous climb up to Tengboche monastery commenced, and I feared that I had walked the hill too quickly. I soon emerged out of the Rhododendron forest and had failed to locate any Blood Pheasants (though it was a good job we returned this way!), and sadly little else. After a break after what I considered to be the toughest climb of the trek, we descended down to Deboche where thick snow was immediately apparent. I let the others continue on whilst I climbed up to another viewpoint, and then traced their steps. Although quiet, patience was soon rewarded by a trio of Red-headed Bullfinches. This minor excitement sent me sinking into the snow as I tried to encroach, adding laughter to one of the porters.
Our stay at Paradise Lodge was thankfully for only one night. It was the worst place we stayed at, not helped by the cold. Evidence of this was our water bottles freezing in our rooms overnight, and the inside of our windows being covered in thick ice. The only positive note was the unbelievable spectacle of the night sky...….wow!
Highlights for today:
Himalayan Griffon - 20
Hen Harrier - 1
Snow Pigeon - 50
GREY-CRESTED TIT - 10
Streaked Laughingthrush - 3
Black-faced laughingthrush - 15
White-browed Fulvetta - 4
Wallcreeper - 1
HODGSON'S TREECREEPER - 2
White-throated Redstart - 4
Altai Accentor - 10
Rufous-breasted Accentor - 2
Beautiful Rosefinch - 4
RED-HEADED BULLFINCH - 3
White-winged Grosbeak - 20
 |
| Black-faced Laughingthrush |
 |
| Wallcreeper on a tree! |
 |
| Hen Harrier |
 |
| Grey-crested Tit |
 |
| Himalayan Griffon |
 |
| Red-headed Bullfinch |
 |
| Departing Namche |
 |
| Yaks with our bags |
 |
| Tengboche monastery |
Monday 17th February (Deboche to Dingboche)
A shorter day, though still with its tough parts. We mercifully departed Paradise lodge (after a lengthy thawing-out session) and continued up the spectacular valley. The views were just amazing, and it was just as well, as we soon left the trees behind us, and that meant fewer birds. There wasn't a great deal to report along the trek to Dingboche, and after settling in to one of the many lodges on offer, I got my boots back on and walked further up the valley. Dense low scrub dominated the riverbanks up the valley, and here I found some brilliant birds. Having done limited research, I was staggered to find a good number of Guldenstadt's Redstarts. The males were very territorial - this being very helpful for me as the males kept finding my birds for me. Among the Black-throated Thrushes was a single Red-throated Thrush, many Robin Accentors and Beautiful Rosefinches.
I retired back to the lodge and chilled for the remainder of the day.
Highlights for today:
Golden Eagle - 1
Alpine Chough - 100+
Grey Crested Tit - 2
Hodgson's Treecreeper - 1
RED-THROATED THRUSH - 1
Black-throated Thrush - 10
White-throated Redstart - 6
GULDENSTADT'S REDSTART - 12
Brown Dipper - 2
ROBIN ACCENTOR - 4
Beautiful Rosefinch - 10
White-winged Grosbeak - 8
 |
| Snow Pigeon |
 |
| White-throated Redstart |
 |
| Beautiful Rosefinch |
 |
| Guldenstadt's Redstart |
 |
| (far from) Paradise Lodge |
 |
| Dingboche |
Tuesday 18th February (acclimatisation at Dingboche)
I went out early morning once again, walking to the same set of bushes I ventured to last night. Yet again, there were plenty more Redstarts and Accentors of varying species. As brilliant as these were, whilst heading back for breakfast, I heard a pair of Tibetan Snowcocks calling on the slopes above me. A frantic scan revealed nothing, but after another bout of calling, a pair of Snowcocks flew along the ridge and landed just about in view, albeit at some distance away......result!
After breakfast, we hiked up a steep hill above Dingboche, preparing us for the next few days. Once this and lunch was completed, I again went solo and walked two hours up the valley towards Island Peak. I noticed a glacier earlier in the day, and after a strenuous effort at a now very difficult altitude, I got lovely views. I was unsure as to where my energy was coming from, but having it meant I was able to venture to different places. I was fairly exhausted after this four hour venture, and so chilled for the rest of the evening, ready for tomorrow's assault.
Highlights for today:
TIBETAN SNOWCOCK - 2
Lammergeier - 1
Red-throated Thrush - 2
Black-throated Thrush - 7
White-throated Redstart - 1
Guldenstadt's Redstart - 20
Plain Mountain Finch - 75
ALPINE ACCENTOR - 1 (at long last)
Robin Accentor - 20
 |
| Robin Accentor |
 |
| Plain Mountain Finch |
 |
| Lammergeier |
 |
| Black-throated Thrush |
 |
| The glacier I was aiming for |
