Matt Eade's Blog: Ecuador – Bella Vista Cloudforest

Friday 25 March 2022

Ecuador – Bella Vista Cloudforest

After my first full day at Yanacocha, I took the long and receding mountain road and valley down to Tandayapa, before ascending once again up to Bella Vista. The drive was concerning to say the least. Recent rainfall had sent some parts of the road down into the river below and my car, which wasn't entirely best suited, coped well. Many stops along the way were excellent as heaps of new birds were found at each stop. I then had three nights at Bella Vista where I spent all my time on the network of trails or along the access track.

Friday 11th March (pm)

The many stops along the valley towards Tandayapa was overwhelming to say the least, and thankfully for the birds. Amongst the many Blackburnian Warblers, I was pleased to find a wonderful variety of birds, with Tyrannine Woodcreeper, Mountain Wren, White-winged Tanager, Blue-winged Mountain Tanager, Brown Violetear and White-winged Brushfinch. After getting stuck only once and dodging the gaps in the road, I then ascended the track up to Bella Vista finding yet more goodies as I went through the varying altitudes. I then happily arrived and met the owner Richard, and whilst he was talking, all I could concentrate on was the onslaught of hummingbirds buzzing around my head. Being my first experience of such a site, I was like a kid high on sugar... so excited and constantly smiling! What a treat to hand feed myriad species of hummers, including the incredible Gorgeted Sunangel, Violet-tailed Slyph and Collared Incas.

Over the course of the 12th and 13th March and the morning of the 14th, I was always up early and worked the top trail which leads past a compost area which was excellent for Sickle-winged Guan, a Chestnut-crowned Antpitta and a pair of Tayra! I then just spent all day out on the trails where I think I came across a decent selection of birds – even the local guide was impressed with my haul so I must have done OK. Certainly the highlight of my visit was the aforementioned antpitta, however, I was particularly pleased to see Plate-billed Mountain Toucan, Streak-headed Antbird, Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant, Green-and-black Fruiteater and Olivaceous Piha. The forest was also echoing the sounds of Spillmann's Tapaculo, a highly secretive bird which showed on only two occasions. The forest was however active with several passing mixed bird flocks, while around the lodge, Masked Trogons and a good helping of flycatchers and tree-creeping birds were in abundance.

Another main feature of this lodge is its nocturnal wildlife. Although Kinkajou are fairly frequent visitors, to see an Olinguito was very special indeed. Only described to science in 2013, this range restricted species was a nightly encounter at the feeding area. Such a special mammal!

I guess the biggest event was getting completely lost on the trail which descended down the steep hillside, through the forest, and eventually onto the access track. Several landslides had resulted in the path disappearing and having to clamber through fallen trees. Not ideal, and I couldn't turn around as it was a near-vertical ascent back up. Therefore, I just ploughed through knowing I would eventually make it to the road, which I did. A good job I'm nimble otherwise this is just another scenario where I could've been food for the many forest-dwelling creepy crawlies. Why can't I just have a normal walk!

Anyway, the highlights from my time at Bella Vista are as follows:

Red-billed Parrot - 20
Golden-headed Quetzal - 5
Smoky-brown Woodpecker - 1
Streaked Tuftedcheek - 3
Pearled Treerunner - 1
Spillmann's Tapaculo - 2
Green-and-black Fruiteater - 1
Olivaceous Piha - 1
Turquoise Jay - 5
Black Flowerpiercer - 1
Tawny-bellied Hermit - 1
Strong-billed Woodcreeper - 2
Rusty-winged Barbtail - 1
Black-capped Tyrannulet - 1
Ashy-crowned Tyrannulet - 1
Dusky Bush Tanager - 2
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta - 1