Helmet Vanga - Madagascar 2024

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Saturday, 29 April 2023

Western Pacific Odyssey: Part 2 (Norfolk Island; then sea days to New Caledonia)

This next post follows on from the couple of sea days we had as we travelled NNW from New Zealand. 

24th March 2023

We awoke to a distant view of Norfolk Island, though it was immediately apparent we were close to land as the number of seabirds we were encountering was superb. Countless Black and Brown Noddy, White Tern, Red-billed Tropicbird, Masked Booby and Great Frigatebird all numbered rather handsomely. We also saw a fair few Grey Ternlets, many Black-winged Petrels and our first Wedge-tailed Shearwaters as we coasted between the two landing areas. After failing the test at the first landing area, we were thankfully given the green light to land on the eastern side of the island. Apparently the landing hit rate on Norfolk is only 1 in 4, so we felt very fortunate. 

Once on dry land, and in stunning conditions, we gathered at the minibuses which would take us up to a nature reserve, full of Norfolk Pines. As we waited, Black-winged Petrels were displaying overhead and White Terns were constantly flying back and forth.

We arrived at the reserve and were told we would have three hours on site. As we had to find four true endemic birds, we wasted no time. Within five minutes, we had already scored two of these: Slender-billed White-eye and Norfolk Geregone. Norfolk Robin took some finding, but the parakeet was proving highly problematic. A few Golden Whistlers were also found with ease.

It wasn't until the last half hour when a Norfolk Parakeet was eventually found. I happened to be on my own not too far away, as maybe 30 birders came running up the path towards me. I joined the peloton and we soon gathered at its location, where it thankfully flew below the canopy and landed briefly in the open, before melting away into the forest. A major result, which allowed for a calm stroll back to the minibuses and back to the zodiacs.   

It was then a full two days at sea before we would see land again, but this being what would prove to be the highlight of the trip - New Caledonia. 

During the course of the afternoon, seabird activity was good, but not too much variety, the best being a Kermadec Petrel and two Providence Petrels, three-figure count of Black-winged Petrel and two Tahiti Petrels.

Slender-billed White-eye

Norfolk Robin


Red-tailed Tropicbird

Black-winged Petrel

Masked Booby

Tahiti Petrel




Norfolk Island

25th March 2023

The seawatching today was surprisingly poor, with just a couple of Providence Petrels, a fair few Tahiti Petrels, and as the evening arrived, our first Gould's Petrels appeared. Some White-tailed Tropicbirds also provided some interest, but there wasn't much on offer. 

26th March 2023

Today was the day we were to land on my most anticipated destination during this voyage, New Caledonia - the land of the Kagu. However, much to my displeasure, we weren't to go for Kagu until the following day, which was slightly grueling, but understandable all the same. 

We will still had plenty of sea to go through before sailing through the reef and onwards to Noumea, where plenty more Gould's Petrels were seen. As we got closer to the reef, Black-naped Terns were relatively common, and four Ospreys were on one of the marker buoys. A potential duo of Grey's Beaked Whale surfaced all too briefly and a Sea Turtle was also spotted, but too brief for me to even attempt identifying it. A few Pacific Reef HeronsWhite-faced HeronsGreater Crested Terns, and as we docked, our first Silver Gulls for a few days. 

Wedge-tailed Shearwater

Gould's Petrel


arriving at New Caledonia