Nepal - Everest Trek (The descent)

This is the last blog post with regards to my recent trek to Everest Basecamp - organised by Nepal Promote Treks.

Having been incredibly lucky with our inbound flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, we were now up against it on the descent. More bad weather was approaching, and was set to last for a considerable few days from our scheduled departure . This entailed a rapid descent from our highest point of Gorakshep, to our original start position of Lukla, in just three days. Our aim was to get to Lukla a day early to get an early flight back to Kathmandu.

Friday 21st February - Gorokshep to Peroche

Having no need to venture up Kala Pathar, and now fully recovered from last evening's arduous venture, we ascended as a group back the way we came. Birds were very thin on the ground today, though when descending, one needs to look more at the path, rather than the surrounding hillsides.

After the same hairy restaurant (that had now made the chefs wear hats), we descended further into the glacial valley, and followed the track all the way down to Peroche. Very few species seen today, and maybe the turn in the weather was a reason for this. After arriving at our comfortable lodge, the heavens opened, though of course at this altitude it was all snow. The valley soon turned to white, and continued all through the night, revealing a striking landscape in the morning.

Highlights from today:

Alpine Chough - 50
Black-throated Thrush - 1
Guldenstadt's Redstart - 2
Alpine Accentor - 4

Kala Pathar - it's steeper than how it appears

White-winged Grosbeak

The hairy restaurant

Saturday 22nd February - Peroche to Namche Bazar

As promised, the views this morning were stunning. We donned our gaiters and various waterproofs. All this needed as we would be ploughing through the thick snow for the first few hours of the day. After a few snowball flights, we gathered our energy and continued the descent.

We soon reached the upper treeline and many shrubs, revealing many birds that had been forced down due to the snow. After a tough hike up to the monastery at Tengboche, I went ahead as the descent from now was through the dense rhododendron forest, and hopes for a Blood Pheasant were high. I had done my research on the call, and within maybe 10 minutes, I heard the sound I was after. After a bit of shuffling around in the snow and tangling branches, a small group of Blood Pheasants revealed themselves. They were rather distant and mobile, and I soon lost sight of them. However, this didn't take away my joy of seeing these birds.

There was still a very long way to go to get to Namche, and I went through stages of creating large gaps, and then hanging back. This worked well until I stormed off ahead - whilst watching a pair of exquisite Himalayan Monals, the others were watching a superb adult Lammergeier floating just above their heads. And of course they wasted no time in showing me the gripping videos - though they did say it was an Eagle, so I had my say in the end!

Slowly but surely, and at the end of a tiresome day, we finally saw Namche emerge from the cloud ahead of us. It was a welcome sight.

As I had used up my hot shower usage from other locations (payment for hot showers is compulsory), I had no choice but to sacrifice myself, and have a cold shower (I've submerged myself in Antarctic waters, but this was something else!!).

Highlights for today:

BLOOD PHEASANT - 4
Himalayan Monal - 6
Lammergeier - 4
Golden Eagle - 1
Snow Pigeon - 50
RUFOUS-VENTED TIT - 1
Coal Tit - 5
SPOTTED LAUGHINGTHRUSH - 2
Black-faced Laughingthrush - 15
Hodgson's Treecreeper - 1
Blue Whistling Thrush - 5
White-throated Redstart - 2
Robin Accentor - 3
White-winged Grosbeak - 20

Blood Pheasant

Lammergeier - the same one the 

group had circle over them

Spotted Laughingthrush

Himalayan Monal

Black-faced Laughingthrush

Peroche

Tengboche monastary

Sunday 23rd February - Namche Bazar to Lukla 

Our final day of trekking, on what had been the most amazing experience. It was to be another long slog, but with an end goal in mind, we were to pull through. Today I generally stayed at the back. One reason was that there were so many birds I couldn't keep up, and secondly, some colleagues were struggling and I felt best inclined to help them through it - though I soon left them when a good bird showed, so I wasn't that great.

It all started well with a couple of Monals and Kalij Pheasants seen along the upper reaches of the pine forest. When at the bottom of the steep descent, and now following the river, my hopes for an Ibisbill were aroused once again. It still felt too early in the season for this species, and so that turned out. Many fruitless attempts of scanning the many rocks along the river were had, and I accepted my defeat - although many White-capped Redstarts were enjoyed.

As we neared Lukla, the landscape turned into cultivations, and this is where the many highlights from the day were encountered. Among a group of Alpine Accentors was a superb Dark-breasted Rosefinch, and a male Hodgson's Redstart was also seen. Many bird flocks were also encountered, and contained many species, the best being some Green Shrike-babblers among the tricky complex of lead-warblers, though I got it sorted.

And that was it, the steep steps up to the return gate at Lukla meant our mission was complete. We found a pub, and overlooking the superb valley below, we enjoyed either a coffee or a beer (I went for the latter of course). The descent had been so quick it was hard to comprehend what we had achieved, though once back safely in Kathmandu, it all became apparent. On the 24th, we caught our Kathmandu flight (a day early) and treated ourselves to some pampering, fine fining, and a brilliant night out, courtesy of our wonderful guide, Saroj.

Over the next few days, we toured the city, before I left the group early and headed for Mt Phulchowki to continue my time in Nepal. The others a few days later headed for home.

Highlights for the 23rd:

Himalayan Monal - 2
Kalij Pheasant - 2
Golden Eagle - 1
Oriental Turtle Dove - 5
House Swift - 20
Yellow-billed Blue Magpie - 10
Nutcracker - 4
Green-backed Tit - 10
Rufous-capped Babbler - 1
Streaked Laughingthrush - 2
Black-faced Laughingthrush - 20
Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush - 5
GREEN SHRIKE-BABBLER - 2
White-browed Fulvetta - 10
Rufous Sibia - 5
Hodgson's Treecreeper - 2
HODGSON'S REDSTART - 1
Blue-fronted Redstart - 3
White-capped Redstart - 6
Brown Dipper - 4
GREEN-TAILED SUNBIRD - 1
Alpine Accentor - 3
Rufous-breasted Accentor - 4
DARK-BREASTED ROSEFINCH - 1
White-winged Grosbeak - 5

Mt. Everest

Snow Pigeon

Yellow-billed Blue Magpie

Dark-breasted Rosefinch

A well-deserved beer

Lukla airstrip

Nepal - Everest Trek (The ascent part 3)

This is the final blog post with regards to the ascent. After an acclimatisation day in Dingboche, we were now ready to tackle the final few days to basecamp. So far, for myself it had been a relatively easy task, though others were now suffering with the altitude somewhat.

Just to repeat, the company used for the trek was 'Nepal Promote Treks' - and Saroj the owner, was superb in guiding and ensuring all were kept fit and healthy throughout. Each morning and evening our oxygen levels were recorded, preventing any chances of anyone suffering serious altitude sickness.

Wednesday 19th February (Dingboche to Lobuche - 16,200 feet)

After a sharp ascent out of Dingboche, we followed the ridge of a glacial valley to yet another sharp ascent, though with thankfully a restaurant at its base. We rested here for a short time (whilst simultaneously being served several meals with several hairs, leading to the joint being re-branded as the hairy restaurant), before taking on the gruelling ascent up to a whole host of several memorials. It was a rather touching affair, seeing names that are now famous - though mostly people that had died during the descent.

Now mostly walking on either ice or rocks (vegetation now limited to the shortest of grasses), we eventually arrived into the settlement of Lobuche. Obviously, at this altitude very few species can survive, but those that do are rather special. I was particularly pleased to encounter a small flock of Horned Larks, and yet another pair of Tibetan Snowcocks.

Being mid-afternoon and ultra-keen, I managed to spark the enthusiasm into a few people to walk with me up onto a ridge. This ridge unbeknown to me, actually looked up the entire valley towards Everest, so a worthy effort in my eyes.

Highlights today:

Tibetan Snowcock - 2
Himalayan Griffon Vulture - 5
Snow Pigeon - 20
Red-billed Chough - 50
Alpine Chough - 50
Guldenstadt's Redstart - 2
Plain Mountain Finch - 50
Alpine Accentor - 2
Robin Accentor - 10
Horned Lark - 5

The hairy restaurant

Tibetan Snowcocks

Thankfully not our accommodation.

Thursday 20th February (Lobuche to Gorukshep 5200m)

The 20th was to be our special day - a day that would finally see us arrive at Everest Basecamp. All that was in our way was a couple of sharp ascents; a hefty lunch; and another three hour walk from Gorukshep to basecamp. Just to add more to the day, I then ascended 90% of Kala Pathar, though more on this later.

Awake and ready to go, I was waiting outside on what was yet another freezing morning (the water in the bottles had once again frozen overnight). However, just outside were a wealth of passerines. Alpine Accentors were waiting to be kicked off the path, male Great Rosefinches were as iridescent as ever, and Brandt's Mountain Finches were everywhere. A surprise was also feeding in the frozen ditches - a female of what I believe to be a Crimson-browed Finch.

Our day started with a relatively easy trek up the valley. Very few obstacles and birds meant an enjoyable walk was had. However, very recently the original path bordering the glacial valley had collapsed. Therefore, we would have to work our way around the rubble. What was more frustrating, was the continuous ascending and descending that went with this. The only hope was that as soon as we had cleared the rubble, our final settlement would be in view. Gorukshep wasn't as bad as I had imagined, but intermittent low cloud meant I was un-decided on how my afternoon would shape up.

Although reaching basecamp was everyone's target, my target was actually to reach the summit of Kala Pathar - that peaks above the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro in Africa. But, due to intermittent low cloud, I was uneasy of ascending this hill and wasting an opportunity of reaching basecamp - basically the reason for summiting Kala Pathar is to have a superb view of Everest and the surrounding mountains. If it's cloudy, there is no need, and a return visit in the morning would have to be completed, and therefore, missing out on Basecamp entirely.

So the decision was made to head straight for Basecamp after lunch, and I'm so glad I did. It was a satisfying feeling reaching Everest Basecamp, an experience I was so pleased to share with my trekking buddies. At the time though, there was a strong feeling for myself to one day do the near-impossible, of reaching the summit of Everest, but of course that'll never happen. We enjoyed every moment of this once-in-a-lifetime happening. What made it that extra bit special, was upon our return, the clouds dispersed, and Everest came into full view.......it was magical!

With the weather now improving and still 90-minutes from it becoming dark, I came up with an idea that I was later to regret. I knew I had time to reach Kala Pathar, and knew that a porter was up there. I therefore wasted no time in handing over my rucksack, grabbing some snacks and some water from our guide, and started the toughest ascent of the entire journey. To reach the summit, the path circles around the hill - I however went for the more direct option in order to save valuable time. As I neared the top after climbing over several boulders, I could see below the porter. It was this that changed my mind of reaching the top. It was already getting dark, and if I was to get injured up here, my time would have been severely limited. I regretfully made the correct decision of starting my descent back to Gorukshep, however I knew I had reached above the summit of Mt. Kilamanjaro, and could at least savour something. Although it was a regret not reaching the summit, the views of Everest were just incredible, and being on my own with the sun setting behind me, it was an image that I'll never forget.

The descent was difficult at times, not helped by my snood freezing to my face.....it was that cold! Due to my extreme trekking today, I had completely exhausted myself. I eventually arrived back at the hotel, and nearly collapsed around the fire where everyone else had sensibly stayed. I laid down, feeling absolutely grim, and just waited and waited until I felt better. When I did finally come round, it was time for another freezing cold night, where icing water bottles was the common theme yet again.

Highlights today:

Tibetan Snowcock - 2
HILL PIGEON - 2
Snow Pigeon - 10
Alpine Chough - 50
BRANDT'S MOUNTAIN FINCH - 50
Alpine Accentor - 25
Robin Accentor - 2
Horned Lark - 15
GREAT ROSEFINCH - 3
CRIMSON-BROWED FINCH - 1 fem (probably this species)

Alpine Accentor

presumed Crimson-browed Finch

A strange sightings as way above the treeline here,

but little else matches?

Brandt's Mountain Finch

Great Rosefinch

Alpine Chough

Hill Pigeon

Brandt's Mountain Finch

Mt. Everest - beautiful

Everest 'on fire'

The summit of Kala Pathar

just out of reach.

Mt. Everest centre shot

Nepal - Everest trek (The ascent part 2)

This is the second blog post on my current trip to Nepal. The first 17 or so days was spent undertaking the trek to Everest Basecamp. The company we used was 'Nepal Promote Treks', and Saroj the owner, was superb throughout.

This post continues the trek, ascending north from Namche Bazar and heading slowly but surely towards Basecamp. We were among the upper reaches of the treeline, but from now on there was plenty of both descending and ascending. This suited me as I could create quite a lead from the others to savour some of the mouth-watering species that can be found at these altitudes.

Sunday 16th February (Namche to Deboche)

I started the day the same as yesterday, by walking the valley to the west of Namche. Once again, there was a fine selection of species on offer, despite the temperature being well below zero.
After breakfast, we started the long and arduous walk to Deboche, taking in the superb scenery up the valley in front of us. One of the biggest surprises whilst walking the mountain ridge was a Hen Harrier, that circled above me and drifted down the valley. Descending down towards the river for lunch took us through some superb forest, and several Tit flocks comprising of a few species were encountered. On the ground were a couple of Black-throated Thrushes and White-throated Redstarts.
After lunch, the perilous climb up to Tengboche monastery commenced, and I feared that I had walked the hill too quickly. I soon emerged out of the Rhododendron forest and had failed to locate any Blood Pheasants (though it was a good job we returned this way!), and sadly little else. After a break after what I considered to be the toughest climb of the trek, we descended down to Deboche where thick snow was immediately apparent. I let the others continue on whilst I climbed up to another viewpoint, and then traced their steps. Although quiet, patience was soon rewarded by a trio of Red-headed Bullfinches. This minor excitement sent me sinking into the snow as I tried to encroach, adding laughter to one of the porters.
Our stay at Paradise Lodge was thankfully for only one night. It was the worst place we stayed at, not helped by the cold. Evidence of this was our water bottles freezing in our rooms overnight, and the inside of our windows being covered in thick ice. The only positive note was the unbelievable spectacle of the night sky...….wow!

Highlights for today:

Himalayan Griffon - 20
Hen Harrier - 1
Snow Pigeon - 50
GREY-CRESTED TIT - 10
Streaked Laughingthrush - 3
Black-faced laughingthrush - 15
White-browed Fulvetta - 4
Wallcreeper - 1
HODGSON'S TREECREEPER - 2
White-throated Redstart - 4
Altai Accentor - 10
Rufous-breasted Accentor - 2
Beautiful Rosefinch - 4
RED-HEADED BULLFINCH - 3
White-winged Grosbeak - 20

Black-faced Laughingthrush

Wallcreeper on a tree!

Hen Harrier

Grey-crested Tit

Himalayan Griffon

Red-headed Bullfinch

Departing Namche

Yaks with our bags

Tengboche monastery

Monday 17th February (Deboche to Dingboche)

A shorter day, though still with its tough parts. We mercifully departed Paradise lodge (after a lengthy thawing-out session) and continued up the spectacular valley. The views were just amazing, and it was just as well, as we soon left the trees behind us, and that meant fewer birds. There wasn't a great deal to report along the trek to Dingboche, and after settling in to one of the many lodges on offer, I got my boots back on and walked further up the valley. Dense low scrub dominated the riverbanks up the valley, and here I found some brilliant birds. Having done limited research, I was staggered to find a good number of Guldenstadt's Redstarts. The males were very territorial - this being very helpful for me as the males kept finding my birds for me. Among the Black-throated Thrushes was a single Red-throated Thrush, many Robin Accentors and Beautiful Rosefinches.
I retired back to the lodge and chilled for the remainder of the day.

Highlights for today:

Golden Eagle - 1
Alpine Chough - 100+
Grey Crested Tit - 2
Hodgson's Treecreeper - 1
RED-THROATED THRUSH - 1
Black-throated Thrush - 10
White-throated Redstart - 6
GULDENSTADT'S REDSTART - 12
Brown Dipper - 2
ROBIN ACCENTOR - 4
Beautiful Rosefinch - 10
White-winged Grosbeak - 8

Snow Pigeon

White-throated Redstart

Beautiful Rosefinch

Guldenstadt's Redstart

(far from) Paradise Lodge

Dingboche

Tuesday 18th February (acclimatisation at Dingboche) 

I went out early morning once again, walking to the same set of bushes I ventured to last night. Yet again, there were plenty more Redstarts and Accentors of varying species. As brilliant as these were, whilst heading back for breakfast, I heard a pair of Tibetan Snowcocks calling on the slopes above me. A frantic scan revealed nothing, but after another bout of calling, a pair of Snowcocks flew along the ridge and landed just about in view, albeit at some distance away......result!

After breakfast, we hiked up a steep hill above Dingboche, preparing us for the next few days. Once this and lunch was completed, I again went solo and walked two hours up the valley towards Island Peak. I noticed a glacier earlier in the day, and after a strenuous effort at a now very difficult altitude, I got lovely views. I was unsure as to where my energy was coming from, but having it meant I was able to venture to different places. I was fairly exhausted after this four hour venture, and so chilled for the rest of the evening, ready for tomorrow's assault.

Highlights for today:

TIBETAN SNOWCOCK - 2
Lammergeier - 1
Red-throated Thrush - 2
Black-throated Thrush - 7
White-throated Redstart - 1
Guldenstadt's Redstart - 20
Plain Mountain Finch - 75
ALPINE ACCENTOR - 1 (at long last)
Robin Accentor - 20

Robin Accentor

Plain Mountain Finch

Lammergeier

Black-throated Thrush

The glacier I was aiming for