This is the final blog post with regards to the ascent. After an acclimatisation day in Dingboche, we were now ready to tackle the final few days to basecamp. So far, for myself it had been a relatively easy task, though others were now suffering with the altitude somewhat.
Just to repeat, the company used for the trek was 'Nepal Promote Treks' - and Saroj the owner, was superb in guiding and ensuring all were kept fit and healthy throughout. Each morning and evening our oxygen levels were recorded, preventing any chances of anyone suffering serious altitude sickness.
Wednesday 19th February (Dingboche to Lobuche - 16,200 feet)
After a sharp ascent out of Dingboche, we followed the ridge of a glacial valley to yet another sharp ascent, though with thankfully a restaurant at its base. We rested here for a short time (whilst simultaneously being served several meals with several hairs, leading to the joint being re-branded as the hairy restaurant), before taking on the gruelling ascent up to a whole host of several memorials. It was a rather touching affair, seeing names that are now famous - though mostly people that had died during the descent.
Now mostly walking on either ice or rocks (vegetation now limited to the shortest of grasses), we eventually arrived into the settlement of Lobuche. Obviously, at this altitude very few species can survive, but those that do are rather special. I was particularly pleased to encounter a small flock of Horned Larks, and yet another pair of Tibetan Snowcocks.
Being mid-afternoon and ultra-keen, I managed to spark the enthusiasm into a few people to walk with me up onto a ridge. This ridge unbeknown to me, actually looked up the entire valley towards Everest, so a worthy effort in my eyes.
Highlights today:
Tibetan Snowcock - 2
Himalayan Griffon Vulture - 5
Snow Pigeon - 20
Red-billed Chough - 50
Alpine Chough - 50
Guldenstadt's Redstart - 2
Plain Mountain Finch - 50
Alpine Accentor - 2
Robin Accentor - 10
Horned Lark - 5
Thursday 20th February (Lobuche to Gorukshep 5200m)
The 20th was to be our special day - a day that would finally see us arrive at Everest Basecamp. All that was in our way was a couple of sharp ascents; a hefty lunch; and another three hour walk from Gorukshep to basecamp. Just to add more to the day, I then ascended 90% of Kala Pathar, though more on this later.
Awake and ready to go, I was waiting outside on what was yet another freezing morning (the water in the bottles had once again frozen overnight). However, just outside were a wealth of passerines. Alpine Accentors were waiting to be kicked off the path, male Great Rosefinches were as iridescent as ever, and Brandt's Mountain Finches were everywhere. A surprise was also feeding in the frozen ditches - a female of what I believe to be a Crimson-browed Finch.
Our day started with a relatively easy trek up the valley. Very few obstacles and birds meant an enjoyable walk was had. However, very recently the original path bordering the glacial valley had collapsed. Therefore, we would have to work our way around the rubble. What was more frustrating, was the continuous ascending and descending that went with this. The only hope was that as soon as we had cleared the rubble, our final settlement would be in view. Gorukshep wasn't as bad as I had imagined, but intermittent low cloud meant I was un-decided on how my afternoon would shape up.
Although reaching basecamp was everyone's target, my target was actually to reach the summit of Kala Pathar - that peaks above the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro in Africa. But, due to intermittent low cloud, I was uneasy of ascending this hill and wasting an opportunity of reaching basecamp - basically the reason for summiting Kala Pathar is to have a superb view of Everest and the surrounding mountains. If it's cloudy, there is no need, and a return visit in the morning would have to be completed, and therefore, missing out on Basecamp entirely.
So the decision was made to head straight for Basecamp after lunch, and I'm so glad I did. It was a satisfying feeling reaching Everest Basecamp, an experience I was so pleased to share with my trekking buddies. At the time though, there was a strong feeling for myself to one day do the near-impossible, of reaching the summit of Everest, but of course that'll never happen. We enjoyed every moment of this once-in-a-lifetime happening. What made it that extra bit special, was upon our return, the clouds dispersed, and Everest came into full view.......it was magical!
With the weather now improving and still 90-minutes from it becoming dark, I came up with an idea that I was later to regret. I knew I had time to reach Kala Pathar, and knew that a porter was up there. I therefore wasted no time in handing over my rucksack, grabbing some snacks and some water from our guide, and started the toughest ascent of the entire journey. To reach the summit, the path circles around the hill - I however went for the more direct option in order to save valuable time. As I neared the top after climbing over several boulders, I could see below the porter. It was this that changed my mind of reaching the top. It was already getting dark, and if I was to get injured up here, my time would have been severely limited. I regretfully made the correct decision of starting my descent back to Gorukshep, however I knew I had reached above the summit of Mt. Kilamanjaro, and could at least savour something. Although it was a regret not reaching the summit, the views of Everest were just incredible, and being on my own with the sun setting behind me, it was an image that I'll never forget.
The descent was difficult at times, not helped by my snood freezing to my face.....it was that cold! Due to my extreme trekking today, I had completely exhausted myself. I eventually arrived back at the hotel, and nearly collapsed around the fire where everyone else had sensibly stayed. I laid down, feeling absolutely grim, and just waited and waited until I felt better. When I did finally come round, it was time for another freezing cold night, where icing water bottles was the common theme yet again.
Highlights today:
Tibetan Snowcock - 2
HILL PIGEON - 2
Snow Pigeon - 10
Alpine Chough - 50
BRANDT'S MOUNTAIN FINCH - 50
Alpine Accentor - 25
Robin Accentor - 2
Horned Lark - 15
GREAT ROSEFINCH - 3
CRIMSON-BROWED FINCH - 1 fem (probably this species)
Just to repeat, the company used for the trek was 'Nepal Promote Treks' - and Saroj the owner, was superb in guiding and ensuring all were kept fit and healthy throughout. Each morning and evening our oxygen levels were recorded, preventing any chances of anyone suffering serious altitude sickness.
Wednesday 19th February (Dingboche to Lobuche - 16,200 feet)
After a sharp ascent out of Dingboche, we followed the ridge of a glacial valley to yet another sharp ascent, though with thankfully a restaurant at its base. We rested here for a short time (whilst simultaneously being served several meals with several hairs, leading to the joint being re-branded as the hairy restaurant), before taking on the gruelling ascent up to a whole host of several memorials. It was a rather touching affair, seeing names that are now famous - though mostly people that had died during the descent.
Now mostly walking on either ice or rocks (vegetation now limited to the shortest of grasses), we eventually arrived into the settlement of Lobuche. Obviously, at this altitude very few species can survive, but those that do are rather special. I was particularly pleased to encounter a small flock of Horned Larks, and yet another pair of Tibetan Snowcocks.
Being mid-afternoon and ultra-keen, I managed to spark the enthusiasm into a few people to walk with me up onto a ridge. This ridge unbeknown to me, actually looked up the entire valley towards Everest, so a worthy effort in my eyes.
Highlights today:
Tibetan Snowcock - 2
Himalayan Griffon Vulture - 5
Snow Pigeon - 20
Red-billed Chough - 50
Alpine Chough - 50
Guldenstadt's Redstart - 2
Plain Mountain Finch - 50
Alpine Accentor - 2
Robin Accentor - 10
Horned Lark - 5
 |
| The hairy restaurant |
 |
| Tibetan Snowcocks |
 |
| Thankfully not our accommodation. |
Thursday 20th February (Lobuche to Gorukshep 5200m)
The 20th was to be our special day - a day that would finally see us arrive at Everest Basecamp. All that was in our way was a couple of sharp ascents; a hefty lunch; and another three hour walk from Gorukshep to basecamp. Just to add more to the day, I then ascended 90% of Kala Pathar, though more on this later.
Awake and ready to go, I was waiting outside on what was yet another freezing morning (the water in the bottles had once again frozen overnight). However, just outside were a wealth of passerines. Alpine Accentors were waiting to be kicked off the path, male Great Rosefinches were as iridescent as ever, and Brandt's Mountain Finches were everywhere. A surprise was also feeding in the frozen ditches - a female of what I believe to be a Crimson-browed Finch.
Our day started with a relatively easy trek up the valley. Very few obstacles and birds meant an enjoyable walk was had. However, very recently the original path bordering the glacial valley had collapsed. Therefore, we would have to work our way around the rubble. What was more frustrating, was the continuous ascending and descending that went with this. The only hope was that as soon as we had cleared the rubble, our final settlement would be in view. Gorukshep wasn't as bad as I had imagined, but intermittent low cloud meant I was un-decided on how my afternoon would shape up.
Although reaching basecamp was everyone's target, my target was actually to reach the summit of Kala Pathar - that peaks above the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro in Africa. But, due to intermittent low cloud, I was uneasy of ascending this hill and wasting an opportunity of reaching basecamp - basically the reason for summiting Kala Pathar is to have a superb view of Everest and the surrounding mountains. If it's cloudy, there is no need, and a return visit in the morning would have to be completed, and therefore, missing out on Basecamp entirely.
So the decision was made to head straight for Basecamp after lunch, and I'm so glad I did. It was a satisfying feeling reaching Everest Basecamp, an experience I was so pleased to share with my trekking buddies. At the time though, there was a strong feeling for myself to one day do the near-impossible, of reaching the summit of Everest, but of course that'll never happen. We enjoyed every moment of this once-in-a-lifetime happening. What made it that extra bit special, was upon our return, the clouds dispersed, and Everest came into full view.......it was magical!
With the weather now improving and still 90-minutes from it becoming dark, I came up with an idea that I was later to regret. I knew I had time to reach Kala Pathar, and knew that a porter was up there. I therefore wasted no time in handing over my rucksack, grabbing some snacks and some water from our guide, and started the toughest ascent of the entire journey. To reach the summit, the path circles around the hill - I however went for the more direct option in order to save valuable time. As I neared the top after climbing over several boulders, I could see below the porter. It was this that changed my mind of reaching the top. It was already getting dark, and if I was to get injured up here, my time would have been severely limited. I regretfully made the correct decision of starting my descent back to Gorukshep, however I knew I had reached above the summit of Mt. Kilamanjaro, and could at least savour something. Although it was a regret not reaching the summit, the views of Everest were just incredible, and being on my own with the sun setting behind me, it was an image that I'll never forget.
The descent was difficult at times, not helped by my snood freezing to my face.....it was that cold! Due to my extreme trekking today, I had completely exhausted myself. I eventually arrived back at the hotel, and nearly collapsed around the fire where everyone else had sensibly stayed. I laid down, feeling absolutely grim, and just waited and waited until I felt better. When I did finally come round, it was time for another freezing cold night, where icing water bottles was the common theme yet again.
Highlights today:
Tibetan Snowcock - 2
HILL PIGEON - 2
Snow Pigeon - 10
Alpine Chough - 50
BRANDT'S MOUNTAIN FINCH - 50
Alpine Accentor - 25
Robin Accentor - 2
Horned Lark - 15
GREAT ROSEFINCH - 3
CRIMSON-BROWED FINCH - 1 fem (probably this species)
 |
| Alpine Accentor |
 |
presumed Crimson-browed Finch
A strange sightings as way above the treeline here,
but little else matches?
|
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| Brandt's Mountain Finch |
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| Great Rosefinch |
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| Alpine Chough |
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| Hill Pigeon |
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| Brandt's Mountain Finch |
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| Mt. Everest - beautiful |
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| Everest 'on fire' |
 |
The summit of Kala Pathar
just out of reach.
|
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| Mt. Everest centre shot |
