Western Pacific Odyssey (Part 5) - North to Japanese Waters

On the 5th April, we sailed relatively close to Bougainville to the east, whilst heading in a ENE trajectory for New Ireland. Halfway through the day we were due to cross an incredibly deep oceanic trench, but sadly no cetaceans were encountered, so it was a case of building up the adrenaline for our time off the coast of New Ireland - home to the Beck's Petrel! 

Back in the early days when I was a trainee bird-ringer at Whitbread Hollow, I distinctly remember John Cooper approaching me with a CD of images from his recent WPO trip, a CD that he kindly gave to me. Being ever inquisitive, I asked John what his main target was - an instant reply was Beck's Petrel. It was this species that was to stick with me for many years, reading about its history and taking interest in sightings year after year on this particular expedition. It was therefore a major target for myself, and with only one afternoon/evening to find this once lost petrel, it was fair to say the mood was tense on the outer decks. 

The birding was quiet until mid-afternoon when we entered New Ireland waters. Two Eden's Whales (otherwise known as Bryde's, but a different race here) cruised past and a few Tahiti Petrels were spotted, fooling those who were unprepared for how distinct the Beck's Petrel supposedly is. There appeared to be thousands of birds off to the horizon, mainly Black Noddy, Wedge-tailed Shearwaters and a few White Terns. Then, eventually, a few sharp eyes picked out a Pseudobulweri petrel with distinctly faster wingbeats than Tahiti Petrel and overall a different jiss... this was a Beck's Petrel - a species lost for nearly 80 years until it was rediscovered in 2007. Over the next few hours, several more Beck's were found, all interestingly heading for Ambitle Island. Unfortunately, neither of the birds came close enough to get a decent photo, but some good scope views were had... mission accomplished.

Red-footed Booby

Eden's Whale

Long-tailed Skua

Beck's Petrel

The following few days before entering Japan's southern islands were relatively quiet, as we crossed the Equator line and headed across the Mariana Trench and towards the North Mariana Islands. Here, a peculiar petrel was on the water and failed to move as it sat perplexed. Its identity was a mystery, even to those experts onboard, and as it didn't fly one bit (bird flu perhaps?) it was frustrating to say the least. I personally thought it was a Pheonix Petrel, but the general consensus pointed towards a Beck's Petrel. A pod of False Killer Whales also moved through and a few Spinner Dolphins also went by.

petrel sp.

False Killer Whale - closely resembling Melon-headed Whale,
the lack of broad base to the dorsal fin,
very long body and lack of ridge on head,as well as a
strong visual of the blow, means False Killer Whale is the only option.

On one of the evenings we made an oil slick of Matsudaira's Storm-petrels. which worked wonders, but a Band-rumped Storm-petrel failed to come much closer. As we progressed towards Japanese waters, our final new Pterodroma petrel of the voyage made constant appearances and became common as we steamed north, these being the ultra smart Bonin Petrel. Another petrel which I'd only seen in European waters previous was the Bulwer's Petrel, with good numbers seen on a few days before Japan.

Bannerman's Shearwater

Bonin Petrel

Matsudaira's Storm Petrel

My usual posture in the tropics.
Next to me is Barry Reed and one over is Denzil Morgan,
a man close to reaching 10,000 bird species seen worldwide!!

Crossing the Equator

Umbrellas were a must to keep out of the sun

My next post will be the final one of the voyage, featuring some truly mega seabirds, highlights amongst the Bonin Islands, before finally setting foot off the ship in Yokohama Harbour.

Masked Booby

Red-footed Booby

Brown Booby

Western Pacific Odyssey (Part 4) - The Solomon Islands (Part 3)

3rd April 2023

It was another early start as we were to head to the island of Kolombangara. We docked at a small village and were hoisted into a handful of pick-up trucks who were to take us to a superb overlook of Mt Veve. The drive was mostly in the dark, but as light emerged, various parrot species were flashing across the road. 

We finally arrived at a viewpoint but most were held back to listen to Collins shouting instructions, whereas I ignored this and got front row seats of the spectacular forest view. Pale Mountain Pigeon was the hoped for target here and I soon located a very distant flock. It wasn't until they flew that we could all be sure of their identity, until a much closer bird sailed through. 

With the pigeon secured, it was then a case of slowly walking the access road, which myself and Barry Reed covered together, trying as best we could to evade the swarm of birders behind. The birding was very good and although most of the species were the same as yesterday, today they were in greater abundance and showed better too. New birds seen included Solomon's White-eye and the beautiful Oriole Whistler. We also saw many Finsch's Pygmy Parrots, Kolombangara and White-capped Monarchs, Cockerell's Fantail, 'Grey-capped' Cicadabird, many Solomon's Cuckooshrikes and a few Sanford's Sea Eagles were also drifting over every now and then. Most of these species were in a mixed species flock so the birding was constantly entertaining, however, there was still the Buff-headed Coucal which had eluded me, despite hearing a few of them this morning. 

We reluctantly departed this site soon after lunch and headed back to the small town. A group of villagers greeted us and sang a number of songs, using their local instruments to full effect. While they were doing this, a group of Pacific Bottlenose Dolphins came into the river channel, much to our surprise.

The afternoon was spent out on deck as we skirted Kolombangara as this is renowned as a good area to see the range-restricted Heinroth's Shearwater. A few were spotted including some at good scope range allowing the underwing to be seen well, but not close enough for any decent photos. The usual Lesser Frigatebirds and Sooty Terns were also about.

MacKinley's Cuckoo Dove

Sanford's Sea Eagle

The distant mountain is home to
two endemic birds, but too far out of reach
for us.

4th April 2023

Unbeknown to us, today was going to be our last day of landings for the entirety of the trip, due to Micronesia and Japan being pansies about the COVID pandemic which was long gone - truly pathetic, but that's life. 

This morning we arrived at a different location on Kolombangara, but had to be given permission upon arriving. Our chosen villager to let us through, was typically not a popular chap amongst the villagers, so it took some persuasion to let us enter their area, but eventually we managed to get permission... never mess with a women and her machete! 

Anyway, we were soon birding and I joined Frank and a few others as we marched the various village trails, joined by a local. Whilst trying several attempts to lure in a rail, a Stephan's Emerald Dove flew through, and I even struck gold with a New Georgia Dwarf Kingfisher which zipped past me, calling as it went. More coucals were calling and so I sent a local to go and locate it, which he did. I rushed in and after much frustration, I latched onto a Buff-headed Coucal, obtaining brilliant views of this quite superb bird. The sighting was well worth the wait, but it was typical that I saw another one with ease about an hour later. After seeing a Shining Bronze Cuckoo, Moustached Treeswifts and a close Sanford's Sea Eagle, time was pressing on so we slowly returned back to the launch site. However, a calling Roviana Rail was too tempting not to try for, but frustratingly for me I was standing at the wrong end of the line to see it. Therefore, I persisted and walked into the habitat and laid down. Tentatively playing the call, a rail came hurtling towards me, but it was tiny, which soon revealed itself to be a Spotless Crake. A shout then went up for a couple of Duchess Lorikeet in the village, so we rushed over and saw these quite magnificent birds before we reluctantly had to leave. A very impressive morning, but there was still one more landing to do. 

In the afternoon, we diverted from our itinerary and were given an hour only on the island of Ranongga. Us birders were the only ones excited by this, as this tiny island supports an endemic white-eye, and not just any white-eye, but one of the most impressive. Upon landing, it was a mad rush to get across to the village. Frank blasted the tape and almost instantly a Ranongga White-eye flew in. It took some time to perform but eventually did - mission accomplished. I then did a quick swim over a nursery reef before we had to head back. 

Before departing the Solomon's, we had to head over to Gizo to get permission to leave, but despite scoping the trees from the deck, we failed to find Gizo White-eye, which would've been some find, with us maybe 300-metres offshore! 

So that was it for the Solomon Islands. My next post may be my final one of the cruise itself as there were no more landings, and as we crossed the tropics, very few birds, although there were still a few special ones to try and find, including my most wanted of the trip.

Sanford's Sea Eagle

Moustached Tree Swift

Ranongga White-eye

Ranongga

Departing the Solomon's... will I ever be back?

Western Pacific Odyssey (Part 4) - The Solomon Islands (Part 2)

1st April 2023

After the snorkel yesterday, we left heading for westwards towards my most wanted island to visit in this region, this being Guadalcanal. Not only are the birds excellent here, but the island has plenty of historical interest too and although there was no time for that, to set foot on the island was a privilege. One of the highlights from our sailing westwards were two quite awesome logging Pygmy Sperm Whales which I picked up as we were gawping at a huge raft of Sooty Terns and Lesser Frigatebirds. Certainly my cetacean highlight of the trip.

We anchored overnight off Honiara and awoke pre-dawn and even arrived up on Mount Austen pre-dawn too. In the darkness, a Woodford's Rail was calling from some rank vegetation, but alas it remained out of sight throughout this brief period of vocalisation. As light arrived, the forested valleys below us stretched as far as the eye could see, but the birds took a while. Solomon's Cockatoo started to appear in very raucous flocks, while both Cardinal Lory and Yellow-bibbed Lory flew over and Buff-headed Coucal were proving to be a nightmare with their secretive ways. 

As per the norm, I tended to head off from the main flock of birders and walked the main forest track on my own, which worked wonders. I must say I did really well with the majority of target birds seen in a short space of time, while others were struggling. We birded until midday before we had to make tracks back to the vessel, which meant a rather hectic uphill return to make the last vehicle back. However, during the birding time, I saw the following: Midget Berrypecker, Solomon's Cuckooshrike, Moustached Treeswift, some superb Claret-breasted Fruit Doves, Steel-blue Flycatcher, Finsch's Pygmy Parrot, Black-headed Myzomela, two Ultramarine Kingfishers, two White-billed Crows, a juvenile Pied Goshawk and a brief Song Parrot. It had been a brilliant session but I was still missing the coucal and I'd also missed a megapode, although there was still a few days left on these islands before heading north. 

We reluctantly departed this site and took a zodiac back to the ship and continued our sailing westwards, this time towards Tetepare, although there was little rush to set sail as Tetepare wasn't too far away. As dusk approached, I stayed outside to admire the sunset and general sense of being in such a remote part of the world, and I'm glad I did, as two Blainville's Beaked Whales emerged, admittedly at a distance, but were a treat to see.

Solomon's Cockatoo

Finsch's Pygmy Parrot

Ultramarine Kingfisher

Claret-breasted Fruit Dove

Cardinal Lory

Solomon's Cuckooshrike

Steel-blue Flycatcher

Blainville's Beaked Whales - although hard to see, the upper image
shows the beak at about a 40 degree angle out of the ocean,
combined with a distinct dorsal fin,
there is little else what this beaked whale could be.

Views from Mount Austen

Another Solomon's Sunset

2nd April 2023

Today, we dawned opposite the small island of Tetepare where we spent the morning walking the trails that led out from a small village. It was as if the trails were meant for birding, but I suspect not. Anyway, the usual chaos ensued with everyone gathering in one spot, being shouted at by Chris Collins ordering everyone around, before being allowed to set off with a villager to ensure we didn't get lost. It didn't take too long for me to breakaway from my group and once again I ended up on my own, every now and then bumping into the odd group here and there. 

The birding was very good, however, and before we had even departed the gathering spot, we had seen Beach Kingfisher, large groups of Singing Starlings, the superb White-capped Monarch, Dark-eyed White-eye, Crimson-rumped Myzomela and Olive-backed Sunbird. Walking the trails, I had some excellent views of a Red-knobbed Imperial Pigeon, Song Parrot, Barred Cuckooshrike and I even managed some great looks at a Cockerell's Fantail. I walked off the trail at one point and I was certain I flushed a nightjar species, but the views were frustratingly brief and I couldn't be sure. A short while later, I was walking close to the beach and heard a Melanesian Megapode. I stalked the area and finally clapped eyes on the elusive bird and obtained some excellent views. I went off to alert others to its presence and thankfully most others saw it. It had been another productive walk, and after several circuits of the area, I was ready to head back. I then just so happened to be on the correct zodiac as a superb Sanford's Sea Eagle flew over us... what a bird and finale to the morning.

In the afternoon, there was then an option of either visiting Rendoza Island, or go snorkelling off Tetepare. As always, I was keen for both and so I made sure I was back in time to grab the final zodiac over to Rendoza after my snorkel. I must admit, the snorkel was superb - far greater variety than last time with some exceptionally colourful fish seen, including the spectacular Moorish Idol (look it up). I annoyingly missed a Black-tip Reef Shark... I still don't know how! 

Thankfully I still had time to get to Rendoza and I rushed over to the main forest track and joined Frank Lambert who was taping in a Kolombangara Monarch. It took some time to come in but thankfully it did which was a huge relief, although I need not have worried, as we were to see many more the following day. A pair of Cockerell's Fantails and several White-capped Monarchs also performed superbly.

Monitor Lizard

Red-knobbed Imperial Pigeon

Long-tailed Myna

Barred Cuckooshrike

Song Parrot

A trail on Tetepare

Beach Kingfisher on Tetepare