Nepal - Everest Trek (The ascent part 1)

Introduction

Back in 2017, I got asked along on this very same trip, to trek to the famous Everest Basecamp. Sadly, other commitments meant that the 2018 trip wasn't possible for me, neither was 2019 due to being in northern India. Thankfully, my ex-work colleague was attempting the trek for his third and last time, and this was enough for me to join him and eight others.

The other participants were mostly ex-work colleagues, whilst others were friends of a friend, etc. All turned out to be excellent trekking companions, and over the course of the trek, we all got along very well. All were very accommodating to my birding obsession, with some even expressing considerable interest - especially when a Himalayan Monal showed itself.

Over the next few blog posts, I'll be outlining the individual days, and of course the birds and other interesting aspects that occurred along the way.

Wednesday 12th February

I landed into Kathmandu in the early morning and cleared the new and 'improved' visa for immigration. Once I had collected my bags, I waited half an hour to be picked up by our trekking leader, and of course my old work mates. The rest of the day was mainly spent chilling, eating, and gathering all of my gear ready for days ahead.

Thursday 13th February (Lukla to Phakding)

An early awakening and we were off to the airport for our short flight to Lukla. Before this trip commenced, I was very much aware of this airstrip and its ranking in the 'world's most dangerous airports' category. Thankfully, it all went according to plan, and we had landed at Lukla airport and began our mission.

Our target for today was to reach the settlement of Phakding, roughly a four to six hour walk depending on the speed, or how many birds there were. The views from the off were incredible, and a slow pace was appreciated to witness some excellent birds. By far the highlight (and within the first hour), was a brief encounter with a stunning Fire-tailed Myzornis - a species that in theory I shouldn't have seen so easily, and it turned out to be my only sighting.

Once we had reached Phakding, I wandered off to the river, searching in vain for an Ibisbill, but all I could muster were some White-capped Redstarts.

Highlights for today (Lifers capitalised):

SNOW PIGEON - 50
YELLOW-BILLED BLUE MAGPIE - 2
Alpine Chough - 2
Yellow-browed Tit - 5
BUFF BARRED WARBLER - 2
Ashy-throated Warbler - 1
BLACK-FACED LAUGHINGTHRUSH - 10
CHESTNUT-CROWNED LAUGHINGTHRUSH - 10
WHITE-BROWED FULVETTA - 6
RUFOUS SIBIA - 4
FIRE-TAILED MYZORNIS - 1
WHITE-TAILED NUTHATCH - 1
White-browed Scrub-Robin - 1
Himalayan Bluetail - 4
BLUE-FRONTED REDSTART - 5
White-capped Redstart - 2
Brown Dipper - 4
PLAIN MOUNTAIN FINCH - 4
RUFOUS-BREASTED ACCENTOR - 3

Olive-backed Pipit

Blue Whistling Thrush

Rufous Sibia

Fire-tailed Myzornis

Rufous-breasted Accentor

Brown Dipper

White-capped Redstart

Friday 14th February (Phakding (2610m) to Namche Bazar (3440m))

Today was an extremely long trek, mainly due to the fact that the altitude difference from start to finish was significant. We crossed the river on many occasions on the trusty swinging bridges, and once lunch was had, we took on the arduous climb into the clouds towards the town of Namche.

Before lunch, the lower altitude birds similar to yesterday performed nicely, but when a Wallcreeper popped out of nowhere I raced towards it uphill, and out of breath, I admired this overdue new bird. The snow-covered peaks above revealed the first of many Himalayan Griffon Vultures, with the single sighting of a Lammergeier providing the most excitement. The long climb had taken us straight into the pine forests, and this is where I encountered my first male Himalayan Monal - the national bird of Nepal. Being fitter than everyone else, I raced up the hill creating a large gap and therefore was able to enjoy not only the monal, but also a tame party of Kalij Pheasants.

It was nearly dark when we arrived into Namche, but the accommodation was welcoming with its heaters.

Highlights for today:

HIMALAYAN MONAL - 4
Kalij Pheasant - 5
Lammergeier - 1
Himalayan Griffon Vulture - 10
Oriental Turtle Dove - 2
Spotted Nutcracker - 4
STREAKED LAUGHINGTHRUSH - 2
Black-faced Laughingthrush - 15
Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush - 5
WALLCREEPER - 1
Blue Whistling Thrush - 2
Himalayan Bluetail - 3
Grey Wagtail - 1
BEAUTIFUL ROSEFINCH - 3

Blue-fronted Redstart

Wallcreeper

Streaked Laughingthrush

Black-faced Laughingthrush

Mountain Goat

Kalij Pheasant

Himalayan Monal with a 

frustrating background.

Our bags hitching a lift

Saturday 15th February - acclimatisation day at Namche (3700m)

I was up nice and early and walked a valley to the west of Namche, later returning for breakfast. Despite the seriously cold temperatures, I notched up a decent species tally. For the bulk of the day, as a group, we ascended 1000ft and finally laid eyes on Mt. Everest that appeared many miles away, though at least gave us inspiration for the gruelling days ahead. The remaining hours were spent in a bakery eating chocolate banana cake, and then walking the same valley as I did this morning.

Highlights for today:

Himalayan Monal - 2
Snow Pigeon - 25
Oriental Turtle Dove - 1
Red-billed Chough - 30
Streaked Laughingthrush - 2
WHITE-COLLARED BLACKBIRD - 1
Black-throated Thrush - 2
WHITE-THROATED REDSTART - 1
Plain Mountain Finch - 50
ALTAI ACCENTOR - 10
Rufous-breasted Accentor - 2
Beautiful Rosefinch - 4
WHITE-BROWED ROSEFINCH - 3
WHITE-WINGED GROSBEAK - 15

White-winged Grosbeak

Altai Accentor

Mt. Everest

Namche Bazar

The Somerset Levels 5th-7th February

Birding in Sussex has been fairly non-existent recently, although there have only been a few nice days when birding would've been possible. In these nice days, I was co-leading another Naturetrek trip down on the Somerset Levels. Once again, the clients were great company and yet another successful trip was achieved. An excellent gathering of 70 Cattle Egrets spread across three fields around the Ham Wall complex was well worth seeing, as well as the usual late afternoon gathering of thousands of Starlings - the latter once again proving popular among the clients.

Since returning, I have finished my flying/slaving career in the skies, and am now ready to embark on an epic trip to Nepal. This will involve a hike up to Everest Basecamp from Lukla; and then undertaking a 10-day tour of various sites within Nepal. So, I'll be back in business from mid-March, unless I can update regularly out there.

Cattle Egret

Great White Egret

Lower Cuckmere 30/1/20

An overwintering Ring Ouzel has been by far the highlight this week. First reported last week by an unknown observer, on Tuesday (with Jasper alongside) I glimpsed the bird as it flew out of sight. I tried again yesterday without Jasper, but failed to find the ouzel in its usual spot. So, today with Jasper I tried again, and upon exiting the area, I found the ouzel as it fed in the sheep field. The bird showed for a few minutes, though as usual for this species it was particularly wary of my presence, and it soon flew off. This time though I had my camera ready and managed to get some shots.

Other interesting sightings at the weekend were second-winters of both Caspian and Yellow-legged Gulls, and the Water Pipit that was mixed in with the many Rock Pipits - of which some will soon reveal themselves to be littoralis.

Ring Ouzel at Lower Cuckmere

Combe Haven 24/1/20

A quick jaunt over to Combe Haven this morning produced fine views of the four scaup. They had changed area today, frequenting the large lake north of the bypass (in the past few days they had been further down the valley). My last few sightings of scaup in Sussex have been of individuals, and therefore I was more inclined to see this 'flock'. Despite the mild winter, I've seen a good number of long-tailed ducks, a smew, and now these scaup - so not as bad as it could've been.

Last weekend I co-led my first Naturetrek trip down on the Somerset Levels. Below are a couple of images from the levels featuring the incredible roost of starlings.

Four scaup at Combe Haven

Jasper and the haunted/abandoned house

Henfield Levels 10/1/20

After visiting both coastal sites to the east and west this year, today I thought it would be best to venture north. Near Balcombe I was surprised to find a huge congregation of Redwings and Chaffinches feeding in a field. I thought a Brambling could be among the Finches, though judging by the poor winter thus far I wasn't overly confident. However, it didn't take long to find a Brambling, and judging by the number of birds present no doubt more could be within this flock.

Elsewhere a walk around some wooded areas produced the likely species, and with plenty of cloud cover the thoughts of any small woodpeckers emerging somewhat dwindled. When the clouds finally did drift off south, a total of three Goshawks were seen within a two hour time period. A total of 20 Siskins and a single Redpoll also flew through between the periods of little activity. The Goshawks weren't displaying, but as I was getting back to the car, a third Goshawk (a huge female) flew around me for a few minutes resulting in me wanting little else from this epic encounter.

Afterwards I visited Henfield Levels and after much searching and boredom, the assistance of West Sussex compatriots Mike and Karen & Nick and Claire found the Glossy Ibis for me. It flew down the valley and landed at some distance where it became very elusive only showing on the odd occasion in a distant ditch.

Brambling near Balcombe

2nd cal. year male Goshawk

2nd cal. year fem Goshawk

Glossy Ibis at Henfield

West Sussex birdrace 5/1/20

Jasper was being annoying during the night, and being unable to get back to sleep, I decided to leave him with Paula and start my big day. At this point it wasn't my plan to try for a big day list as a Bittern on Drayton certainly warranted time and effort, that therefore meant a big list wouldn't be possible. However, upon starting at Arundel WWT (in pure bird race fashion) and scoring some good birds, I was soon in the mood to smash the totals already made thus far by the other groups. Sadly as I was acting solo my totals wouldn't count, though it wasn't clear at this early stage in the day whether or not my total would surpass others.

On my way to Arundel I stopped for some Long-eared Owl action with little success, and therefore I was soon parked at the Black Rabbit awaiting some form of daylight. I stood approx. 300m down the Arun and during the first 45-minutes of 'light' I saw a nice array of species; these included a ringtail Hen Harrier at 07.40, 2 Barnacle Geese, 7 Mandarins (meaning no stop needed at Swanbourne Lake) and a Cetti's Warbler. I had somehow missed a Woodcock that others had seen at the pub and even more so two Barn Owls. The former is a species I see with regularity at this location.

I wasn't too disheartened with the above omissions and carried on my day hurtling towards the Selsey Peninsular. My first quick stop was Sidlesham Ferry adding the expected birds, but more importantly over the ridge and down the channel was a 'Phalaroping' Spotted Redshank. Down to Selsey I swayed clear of the crowd of birders and quickly found three Slavonian Grebes, a Great Northern Diver and passing Red-throated Divers, Razorbills and Gannets. Little else needed here so I then made a brief stop at Church Norton, and with having already seen the grebes I neglected the beach that saved me lots of time. Just the expected waders were found but pleasing enough were a flock of Avocets and a normally hard 'day-list' bird - a Bar-tailed Godwit. Next up I parked along Rookery Lane and took a footpath to where I could distantly view Marsh Farm. The Cattle Egrets were seen and here I saw my only Reed Buntings and Skylarks of the day, though a pack of Yellowhammers were stunning in the morning sunshine. It wasn't even 10am and I had already seen 70+ species...game on!!

A quick jaunt over to Dell Quay had me lucking into a Kingfisher and several Goldeneye, though there was no sign of the Long-tailed Duck. Again I didn't hang around long and ventured just north to Fishbourne where I had better success. Two Water Pipits showed brilliantly for this species and yet more Spotted Redshanks were seen. I always find this site good for Lesser Black-backed Gull and thankfully a pair were present. A clean sweep of easy waders was had with a single Knot and Black-tailed Godwit present, but despite trying I couldn't find a Greenshank, nor could I flush a Jack Snipe. Still, I had added many 'last attempt' birds here before heading inland.

I whizzed through Chichester and was soon on my way to West Dean where a Raven flew over the car. I stopped in the usual spot and quickly found a Hawfinch, with two others seen not so long later. A passing flock was very helpful as it contained a Marsh Tit and a variety of Thrushes. As I was about to leave one of the trickiest birds on a day list sailed through - a Sparrowhawk. Despite being in good Firecrest territory I still hadn't seen one, so I was relieved when I briefly stopped at Droke car park (east of Charlton) and found one there. A passing flock of Bullfinches and a Treecreeper were even more helpful.

Lavington common was rubbish and still needing Grey Wagtail I visited the weir at Burton Mill Pond and one was walking about and showing very well indeed. If I had bothered getting my camera out today it would've made a lovely photo. It was still early afternoon and I was now into three figures, but this of course means you have to now pick your birds. Chiffchaff was easy at Coldwaltham, and yet to see a Snipe I briskly dodged the cows and flushed two Snipe in an area near Greatham Bridge. Viewed from this bridge I finally saw my first Canada Geese of the day as well.

A brief stop at the Rackham viewpoint in case there was any early owl activity (there wasn't) only had me hearing a Nuthatch (I try and see all my birds on a day list), but with time getting on there was still a couple of targets at The Burgh. Despite recent break-ins I risked leaving my car alone and walked to the valley quickly finding a pair of Grey Partridge, and finally my first and only Fieldfare of the day. Yet more Bullfinches were found upon my return to the car. I had tried viewing the valley south of the approach road but low cloud distorted all features. Thankfully it had now cleared and holding my breath (make or break time) I spotted the three distant Bewick's Swans. This now meant I could relax and take in the views and wonderful raptor display over Amberley, once again viewed from the Rackham viewpoint. The commonest bird I had missed was Nuthatch, and so it was with some embarrassment that I had to tape-lure this species into view, but this only took ten seconds. This along with a patrolling Barn Owl over the brooks, I was on a nice round 110 species seen for the day (112 included two heard-only species), and for once ended at a respectable time, despite leaving my home at 04.15.

It was a brilliant day, although missing the likes of Mediterranean Gull, Dartford Warbler, Siskin, Greenshank and Jack Snipe meant it easily could have been more. Still, it's reassuring to think that the winter bird race record made by Bob, Derek and myself in 2018 will be untouched for hopefully some time to come.

Hawfinch at West Dean

Amberley Wildbrooks

Whipsnade Zoo 2/1/20

A nice day out with Ian where the long-staying Black-throated Thrush (British & world tick) performed superbly at the zoo. Mammalian highlights consisted of Amur Tigers, a Sloth Bear, two Cheetahs, a Brown Bear and two Lynx. The Cheetah was particularly gripping as despite many visits to Africa between us, this is one cat we've failed to see.

Patagonian Mara

Black-throated Thrush

Amur Tiger