Antarctic Voyage Part 4 - South Georgia

Day 8
I woke up and looked out the window and was amazed by firstly the weather, and then the spectacular scenery. We had anchored in Fortuna Bay and had one of two options to undertake. I chose the option for a hike up into the mountains and down the other side into Stromness. Although this was more of a historical walk as this was Shackleton's final trek when he found help in Stromness, the scenery and wildlife encounters were well worth the effort. Landing on the beach in Fortuna, Antarctic Fur Seals dominated the beaches including lots of pups, and strangely the sky was full of birdsong, which down here can only be one species, the South Georgia Pipit. Excellent views were had of these, and then the hike began where the most incredible views were witnessed. Again a very surreal feeling walking on an island that so few people have been to. Descending down the other side we came across a small Gentoo Penguin colony, I took a paddle in a waterfall which was freezing, and eventually arrived at Stromness. Access to the building are prohibited due to asbestos still being present, but this didn't matter as there were plenty of Penguins and Seals about to not worry about some buildings. For a time, a Gentoo was walking parallel with me, and its hard to think why these Penguins build their colonies so far away from the sea.......maybe they just like a good walk to.
The Plancius had sailed round to meet us at Stromness, and back on board we slowly sailed to Gyrtviken, home to one of the most intense whaling stations back in the day, but also home to Shackleton's grave, a museum and the British Antarctic Survey. We paid a whiskey toast at the grave, then was left to wander around the area. A brief look at the museum and shop was good, but walking around to the Brits gave stupendous views of Antarctic Terns, a lone King Penguin and many South Georgia Pintails. After some fun with a few young Elephant Seals, we took zodiacs back to the Plancius and were treated to a barbeque at the stern with a form of disco. It was a good night and strange to be in a once horrific area full of slaughter to now having a good time in a peaceful setting, well apart from the loud music.

 South Georgia Pipit

 Antarctic Fur Seal pup

 a sleepy Elephant Seal

 Gentoo Penguins

 walk from Fortuna Bay to Stromness

 Grytviken - scenes of slaughter and near extinction - thankfully no longer

The birders from l - r: Simon Tonge, Janos Olah, yours truly & Tom Johnson

Day 9
We had anchored in Godthul and woken up to yet another stunning day. Although the wind was slightly stronger today we were treated to yet another stunning walk up to Brigg's Point. Again on the beach we had to fight of the Fur Seals and yet again the Pipits were singing everywhere and yet again showing well. Another Gentoo colony was encountered. The final part of the walk was on loose scree and at the top the views looking down the mountainous coastline were brilliant. It was gutting at the end of the walk to find out the people undertaking a zodiac cruise saw a Leopard Seal, a species I failed to see during the whole trip much to my sheer disappointment.
The afternoon was probably the best afternoon ever. We anchored off St. Andrew's Bay and took zodiacs to the beach and once on the beach, we were just swarmed upon by countless King Penguins It was just ridiculous and out of this world to be sat on the beach and families of Penguins just wondering past, taking a close look, hanging around for a bit and plodding on. This bay is home to 250,000 pairs of King Penguins, and the noise certainly put this to right when overlooking the main colony. This encounter was by far the highlight of the trip, and certainly my best wildlife encounter ever.

 Godthul

 a Gentoo bath

King Penguins and much more at St. Andrew's Bay

Day 10
A very early wake up call and I very nearly stayed in bed, but I'm so glad I didn't. From last night to having the most amazing time with the Penguins, this morning I had the most incredible encounter with the young Elephant Seals. I had such a great time I missed photographing the stroppy brown King Penguins. I became a celebrity for a short time as people kept photographing me with three Seals on or around me. My bins, waterproofs and everything else was ruined by the volcanic beach material and Seal slime, but never mind, I was left with a moment of a lifetime.
Back on board and after lunch the weather had got progressively worse but still good enough for our final zodiac cruise on South Georgia. The cruise was good (heavy snow at times) with our first Chinstrap Penguins of the trip, a small colony of Macaroni Penguins and some lovely views of the very common Wilson's Storm-Petrels. A close encounter of an iceberg was nice and finally the cruise ended with our last South Georgia Pipits
Our last excursion on this superb island was a cruise up the Drygalski Fjord. Yet again stunning scenery and some lovely views of Snow Petrels. In the afternoon we left the fjord and set south SW for the South Orkney Islands. Every Diving-Petrel was photographed leaving the island but despite a good deal of stringing, I wasn't able to tick a South Georgia Diving-Petrel, but I gave it a good go. Now for a few more days out at sea before seeing land again.

probably my last ever South Georgia Pipit

 Snow Petrel in Drygalski Fjord

Drygalski Fjord

Antarctic Voyage Part 3 - At Sea to S. Georgia

Day 5
A full day out at sea that produced a new bunch of seabirds. When I woke up I glanced out the window and just there was a stunning Wandering Albatross. I rushed to the stern and all morning we all enjoyed some fantastic Albatross encounters that including six different species. By the afternoon the wind had dropped creating a spectacular atmosphere in the middle of the South Atlantic Ocean. The conditions were now superb for spotting cetaceans including three species of Whale and a nice showing of Dusky Dolphins. For five minutes there was a Whale expedition, with a very showy Southern Bottlenose Whale, then this was overshadowed by an awesome encounter with a Minke Whale that appeared just below the surface, and standing on the front tip of the boat, it shot past underneath like a torpedo and was gone never to be seen again. With such clear water every bit of detail could be seen. A very magical moment, creating a surreal moment when realising just where you are.

 Wandering Albatross - my first bird of the day when I glanced out the window. A beast.

 Northern Royal Albatross - only one of two seen during the whole voyage

 the scratch marks are down to males fighting in the depths

 Southern Bottlenose Whale

 Antarctic Prion - a common species from day 4 all the way down to Antarctica

Black-bellied Storm-Petrel

Day 6
What us birders thought was going to be the most productive day as we got closer to South Georgia was in fact a huge disaster. There were very few birds all day, in conditions that didn't really appeal. A large gathering of Fin Whales in the morning were the highlight. Certainly the least productive day of the trip.

Day 7
We were now ready for dry land but today was another full day out at sea. By late morning South Georgia came into view which was very exciting, and then our first icebergs that turned into a block of flats by the time we got close to them. The day started well with Light-mantled Albatrosses tracking close to the stern, and surprisingly our first Snow Petrel appeared whilst we were taking refuge from the heroic conditions outside. We rushed upstairs to the bridge wings and enjoyed good views. As the ship sailed around the NW side of South Georgia the views were spectacular and thankfully offered some shelter from the relentless wind. Prion Island had some nesting Wandering Albatrosses on it, though landing here wasn't possible this time of year. Unfortunately our first planned landing for the island was cancelled, but thankfully a zodiac cruise in Rosita Harbour was on offer. This provided excellent views of Antarctic Fur Seals and the first Elephant Seals. But more importantly, the most sought after bird for the island, the South Georgia Pipit, of which a single bird was found along the rocky coastline, gave tantalisingly brief views before it flew up into the tussocks. Towards the end of the zodiac cruise, an intense snow shower came into the bay creating yet another superb atmosphere and dramatic effects with the surrounding glacial valleys and the constant sounds of the Fur Seals. We slowly drifted past Salisbury Plain probably seeing around 250,000 pairs of King Penguins. It was lovely to get off the Plancius and into the zodiacs, but we were now keen to get on stable dry land, and with the weather set to improve dramatically, this seemed likely.

 an incredible glacial valley near Rosita Harbour

 South Georgia Pintail

 Antarctic Fur Seal

 Northern Giant Petrel

 Fur Seal in the snow

one of the superb icebergs encountered on the approach into South Georgia

Antarctic Voyage Part 2 - Falkland Islands

Day 3
From just after first light, the Falklands were in view. At the stern, the first Commerson's Dolphins were tracking and Black-browed Albatrosses were everywhere. Our first planned landing was at Carcass Island, and thankfully the weather cleared after initially being murky and rather breezy. Carcass Island was superb and reminded me of the Scillies in some way with clear blue water, rocky shores, warm climate and a very small settlement that included one house that put on a whole load of cakes. The owner knew we were coming! A landing here brought us a couple of endemics and some good non-endemics. I very nearly missed a family of Ruddy-headed Geese as I was captivated by laying in the grass with some Magellanic Penguins.

 Commerson's Dolphin

 Black-browed Albatross with the Falklands in the backround

 Falkland Steamer Ducks - Endemic to Falklands

 Blackish Cinclodes

 White-bridled Finch

 Cobb's Wren - Endemic to Falklands

 Magellanic Penguin

 Ruddy-headed Geese

 our first zodiac landing of thankfully many on this trip

Carcass Island

first bit of land for a few days......always a welcome sight

The weather was stable and after lunch we landed at my most wanted island.........Saunder's Island. Only a couple of people live on this island, and these people monitor the numerous Penguin colonies, including my most sought after species, the Rockhopper Penguin. Last year for some unknown reason, these little Penguins suffered terribly in the breeding season with adults dying on the beaches, surely down to starvation, and this had a knock on effect to the entire population. This year, only a third of what the population should be was present, but it goes without saying, sitting alongside the colony was just fantastic and a much wanted experience.  There was also a Macaroni Penguin at the furthest colony, and a couple of King Penguins also mixed in. This small island played host to five species of Penguin, not what I was expecting so early on in the trip. It wasn't just the Penguins though, Black-browed Albatrosses were nesting right next to the main path. As time was pushing on the guides were keen to get everyone back on the ship via zodiacs, but it was hard to get a shimmy on with so many Penguins on offer, with white sandy beaches and clear blue skies.

Back on the ship we slowly sailed off again into the ocean ready to hit Port Stanley tomorrow. What an amazing day and a life time moment achieved.

 the delightful and charismatic Rockhopper Penguin

 'Falkland' Skua

 a slightly different approach to B-b Albatross photography

Macaroni Penguin

 Striated Caracara feeding on a Gentoo

 King Penguin - not too much time was spent on these as I knew a few birds would be seen on South Georgia

 accommodation on Saunder's Island

Saunder's Island

Day 4
I wish I could've have said the good weather continued, however it didn't. We woke to very strong winds and plenty of rain and evidently the landing at Port Stanley for the morning was cancelled. Thankfully we had time to spare and with the weather set to improve by midday, we sailed around in the large swell until we were clear to land. We landed around 2pm, and us birders got together and got a taxi to Surf Bay and covered the surrounding beaches and hillsides. We set out for three targets and saw them all, though the Snipe and Dotterel took some searching. Tom and myself had a quick pint in the local pub before getting back on board. After a soggy afternoon, we set sail into the open ocean with two full days of sailing ahead towards South Georgia. Upon leaving the islands, Gentoo Penguin colonies could be seen on the various beaches. The weather was looking to clear, hopeful this would continue into the next few days.

Highlights for the two days are as follows:

King Penguin - small numbers on Saunder's
Gentoo Penguins - several colonies encountered
Rockhopper Penguin - colonies on Saunder's
Magellanic Penguin - several colonies
Macaroni Penguin - 1 on Saunder's
Black-browed Albatross
Southern Giant Petrel
Slender-billed Prion - common
White-chinned Petrel - moderate numbers
Common Diving-Petrel - common
Rock Shag
Imperial Shag
Black-crowned Night Heron
Ruddy-headed Geese - 5 on Carcass
FALKLAND STEAMER-DUCK - common at Carcass
Striated Caracara - common on hillside and around Penguin colonies
Blackish Oystercatcher
Two-banded Plover - Surf Bay
Rufous-chested Dotterel - 3
South American/Magellanic Snipe - 2 Surf Bay
Snowy Sheathbill - Saunder's Island
'Falkland' Brown Skua
Blackish Cinclodes - common on Carcass
Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant
Grass Wren
COBB'S WREN - small numbers on Carcass
Correndera Pipit
White-bridled Finch

Dusky Dolphin
Commerson's Dolphin

 Rufous-chested Dotterel

 Magellanic/South American Snipe

 Two-banded Plover

 Port Stanley

leaving the Falklands bound for two days out at sea then on to South Georgia